Seared scallops and chorizo, served with crème fraîche, lime and coriander sauceI allow 2-3 scallops per person, depending on their size, so the following amount is for king scallops.SERVES 6 AS A FIRST COURSE12 large scallops, the small white ridge of muscle sniped off with scissors, and each coral stabbed in 2-3 places with the point of a knife – this helps prevent them bursting open during searing6 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt, a good grinding of black pepper12 slices of chorizo each about ½ cm thickPut the prepared scallops into a wide dish, and spoon the olive oil over. Scatter the salt and grind the pepper over them all. Cover, and leave in the fridge till 10-15 minutes before searing.In a wide sauté pan over fairly high heat fry the slices of chorizo on either side, for about 2 minutes each side, then remove them to a warm plate.Raise the heat beneath the sauté pan and, when very hot, put each scallop into the pan and sear for about 30 seconds before turning them over to sear on their other sides – the heat should be sufficient for the scallops to slightly brown and caramelise.Serve hot or warm with the following sauce.For the sauce½ pint/285ml crème fraîche – either full fat or half fat, it doesn’t mattera large handful of coriander, chopped quite finelyfinely grated rind and juice of 1 limeMix the chopped coriander, lime rind and juice into the crème fraîche. Simply serve in a bowl, for your guests to help themselves. It is delicious with the scallops, but also with other fish including salmon and shellfish, too. Crab mousse with pickled cucumber and pink peppercornsThe cucumber is only lightly pickled, so have no fears of the flavours over-powering the crab. It just makes for a hugely complimentary taste combination.SERVES 62 cucumbers, peeled with a potato peeler, then halved lengthways and, using a teaspoon, the seeds from each half scooped away. Dice the cucumber finely and evenly – I use an Alligator dicer, which only takes a few seconds 3 teaspoons pink peppercorns preserved in brine, drained, not dried peppercorns6 tablespoons white wine vinegar1 teaspoon salt2 teaspoons caster sugarMix together the white wine vinegar, salt and caster sugar. Put the diced cucumber into a wide dish and mix in the pink peppercorns. Spoon the vinegar marinade over and mix thoroughly. Leave for 2 hours, then drain off the liquid.For the crab mousse¾ lb/370g crabmeat, white and brown mixed½ pint/285ml stock containing 1 tablespoon lemon juicea good dash of Tabasco1 teaspoon salt, about 15 grinds of black pepper7fl oz/200ml crème fraiche, full fat or half fat, it doesn’t matter which4 leaves of gelatine soaked in cold water for 10 minutes2 large egg whites and a pinch of saltStart by soaking the gelatine. Heat the stock and lemon juice, and lift the gelatine from their water, drop them into the hot stock and swirl the pan to dissolve. Put the gelatine stock into a cool place till cold and starting to set. Stir the chilled crème fraîche into the gelling stock, which will accelerate the setting, and stir the Tabasco and crabmeat thoroughly into the mixture.Whisk up the egg whites till stiff but still glossy. Fold these quickly and thoroughly through the crab mousse.To serve, either scoop the mousse using an ice-cream scoop, use 2 dessert spoons and form quenelle shapes, or pack the mousse into metal plain scone cutters and lift them, leaving behind small neat towers of crab mousse. With a teaspoon, put 4 small heaps of cucumber and pink peppercorns around each serving.Prawn, bacon and cream cheese pâtéThis is one of my most popular recipes, according to so many who tell me so. It is best of all when made with shelled langoustines, which should be chopped if they are very large. It is simplicity itself, but so very good. The streaky bacon tastes so good with shellfish. Do make the effort to blanch the garlic as it gives an altogether improved flavour.SERVES 62 fat garlic cloves blanched three times by putting them into cold water, bringing to the boil, draining off the boiling water and repeating with cold water. When cooled, the thrice blanched garlic pops out of the skins encasing each clove.½ lb/225g shelled prawns or langoustines, chopped if large12 rashers of streaky unsmoked bacon, grilled till very crisp then drained on absorbent kitchen paper. Break into small bits when cooled1lb/450g low fat cream cheese such as Philadelphia2 tablespoons finely chopped parsleyabout 20 grinds of black pepper – no need for salt, the bacon provides enough saltinessBeat the cream cheese, adding the finely chopped parsley. Chop the soft blanched garlic and beat them into the cream cheese, with the bits of crispy bacon and the chopped prawns or langoustines. Pile into a bowl and serve with either oatcakes or toast, or with chunks of warmed seeded bread.

Perish the thought – but if I had to choose whether to eat only meat or only fish, I’d have to opt for fish. I can’t imagine life without it. But then, here in Scotland we are spoilt because we have, quite simply, the best fish and shellfish in the world. And if you need evidence for that statement, you have it in the numerous huge refridgerated lorries thundering down our roads from the main fishing ports, bearing ‘our’ fish and shellfish to mainland Europe – the mainland Europeans know a good thing when they taste one!

Accessing fresh fish and shellfish isn’t easy in some areas. But a new business has started in Inverness, called buyseafoodonline.co.uk which guarantees next day delivery for fish and/or shellfish. An entrepreneurial idea if ever there was one, and the fish merchant is Mr Fraser, whose shop is in the Victorian market in the heart of Inverness. I have bought fish and shellfish, as well as venison and game from Mr Fraser for decades now, and he has never let me down. He only supplies the very best, and now it is available to everyone throughout the UK.

Here are three recipes, each quite different, using delicious fish or shellfish, and all are quick and easy to prepare and cook.