Restaurant review: Le Bistro Beaumartin, Hope St., Glasgow

This new French eatery seems a bit out-of-place. With its homely, neighbourhood bistro feel, I imagine that it would suit a leafy corner (near Waitrose) in Glasgow’s west end, rather than a busy central street that’s buzzing with trafffic.

But, then, I’m sure that its urban location, near the Theatre Royal, equals plenty of footfall. When I visited on a Thursday evening, it was trop busy indeed.

The front of the L-shaped space – which is owned by Richard Dupupet, direct from Paris, and Scottish chef Andrew Stott – consists of a bar and cafe-area, painted smoky grey, with Chesterfield sofas and shelves that display frog and hen ornaments.

Diners are parked in a long, corridor-like area at the rear, where the decor and furniture is stripped back and rustic.

The latter description could apply to the food too.

We went for a hoary classic – soupe a l’oignon (£5.50), as well as gravlax de saumon au miel, aneth and cremant de Bourgogne (£14.50, part of the two courses, plus a glass of house wine, Special Menu, available Monday to Friday, noon-2pm and 5pm-7pm, and Saturday noon-7pm).

The oniony broth wasn’t bad, with a foxy hue and plenty of flavour (although, slightly lacking in the rich depth and treacley sweetness that you might crave).

It came with ramekins of grated gruyère and tooth-challengingly calcified croutons, to add to the soup in situ.

We were more impressed by the two slices of yeasty Polaine sourdough that came alongside this dish. Considering it’s about £6 a loaf in my local deli, I appreciate the chance to eat posh imported bread without having to pan-in my piggy bank.

My home-smoked salmon offering was decent enough, with five thick slivers of faintly oaky fish. These were drizzled with stripes of a whisperingly subtle dill and lemon dressing, which featured a hint of frothy acidity from the sparkling wine ingredient.

This came with a good side salad of crisp chicory, endive and peppery rocket.

Mains were equal parts yeh and meh.

The parmentier de confit de canard, ecrase de pomme de terre (£14), or ducky cottage pie, was presented in a little earthenware oven dish and featured shreds of soft meat, in a rich jus.

However, the thick layer of nuclear- reactor-hot mash on top was very watery, as granular as grout, and full of hard tattie shrapnel.

“Why, oh why?” was my cri de coeur.

I imagine that chef ran out of time, when it came to cooking the pomme de terre, and had to pummel it until it was a half-cooked paste. French school dinners.

The boeuf bourguignon, conquillettes au buerre consisted of chunks of melty beef, topped by a bay leaf and a sprig of thyme, and was served in a thin, red winey and peppery jus, with just a hint of juniper.

This came with a huge mound of buttered macaroni. Not a bad dish overall, but it felt a little ascetic.

I don’t want to show my I-could-cook-this-at-home-on-a-weeknight card, and it’s too late now.

Puddings were better. A “traditional crème brûlée from the Burgundy region of France” with prunes and gingerbread (£6.40) was glossy, creamy, crispy-topped and packed with malty gingerbread and sweet juicy prunes.

Meanwhile, the dark chocolate tart (£6.40), with an accompanying blob of chopped-mint-topped crème fraîche, was filled with a rich and dense ganache, but had a slightly chewy shortcrust case. I don’t want to gripe too much. The lunches, which include tartines (£8.50) of Polaine topped with duck terrine, or goats cheese with bacon lardons, all served with salad and sautéed potatoes, sound as if they couldn’t be anything but delicious.

If Le Bistro Beaumartin were in my neighbourhood, I’d definitely give it another shot.

As things stands, it doesn’t quite justify a detour.

Le Bistro Beaumartin

161 Hope Street, Glasgow (0141-226 4442, www.lebistro beaumartin.co.uk)

How much?

Dinner for two, including one glass of wine, £46.80

Ah, Bistro! - Three to try

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Dishes at branches of this capital institution include their signature cassoulet with pork, duck and Toulouse sausage.

Cafe Tabou

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The pre-theatre menu consists of two courses and coffee for £15.40, with starters that include steamed mussels in a blue cheese and shallot sauce.

Cafe Boheme

23 Windmill Lane, Aberdeen (01224 210677, www.cafebohemerestaurant.co.uk)

Crispy duck leg confit with roast parsnip and sage risotto and chestnut velouté? Yes please.