Restaurant review: Carluccio’s, Glasgow

Can I just say, I really enjoyed Two Greedy Italians – such a wonderful series,” I gushed. “You and Gennaro Contaldo are so great together.” Silence.

Silence.

“Okay,” says Antonio Carluccio, “Goodbye.”

Click, brrrr.

This television chef recently did the What Matters to Me Q&A interview in The Scotsman Magazine.

I’m not sure if it was the language barrier, the dodgy telephone line or the fact that 74-year-old Carluccio hears this kind of flannel all the time.

But, anyway, he was unmoved by the fawning, and my face was the colour of passata.

However, I’d pulled myself together by the time I visited the first Scottish branch of his eponymous chain restaurant, on a busy corner in Glasgow city centre. The foyer of this open-plan venue is packed with well-curated produce, such as candied clementines, mushroom knives, cuttlefish ink sauce and other store-cupboard treasures.

There’s also a deli area, with meats, cheeses, anchovies and olives, and a fantastical display of cakes and biscuits, which, I assume, you can eat at the bar area that runs along one wall.

Even before you’ve found your table in the restaurant space, with its white tiles and canteen-style seating, you may have wafted your debit card about. Luckily, I’m very resistant to temptation (it’s my New Year’s resolution).

The menu is quite simple, with a focus on antipasto (to share, or as single portions), Stuzzichini (small Italian plates) and breads.

We chose from the small selection of hot starters – the zuppa di funghi con pancetta (£4.65) for my dining partner Rolf, and tortino di tonno (£5.25) for yours truly.

The former consisted of a buff- coloured funghi broth, which was packed with cross-sections of chestnut mushroom. Visually, this reminded me of the slug trap that my mum uses in the garden (a pint glass full of beer – works a treat).

Nonetheless, it tasted good, with a topping of chopped chives. There were only a couple of nibs of pancetta in the mix, but that was enough to impart a subtle smokiness.

We both loved the golden focaccia on the side, which was a plank of olive oily and sea salty loveliness.

“Like an Italian version of an Aberdeen buttery,” said my amico.

My starter – a solo fishcake – was foxy-coloured on the outside, with a caper-laden inner of frothed-up potato and tuna. Pleasant and light. On the side was a large blob of an unremarkable garlic mayonnaise and a nicely seasoned salad of rocket and crunchy baby gem leaves.

Next, I went for the wintry sounding fegato alla griglia (£13.95), which consisted of two smoky and irony chargrilled calves livers. These whole sail-shaped beauties came with a mound of rustic mash, but it was the rich gravy, and the sweet red onion compote, that transformed this dish into a treat.

Across the table, Rolf was guzzling the homely gnocchi al ragu d’agnello (£10.95). What a portion. After a rough head count, I’d say there were around 40 in this gnocchi flock, all of which tasted comfortingly toasty.

These came with a shredded lamb ragu, which was fragrant with rosemary and parsley, and dotted with lumps of tomato, carrot and onion.

All your favourite Italian desserts are served at Carluccio’s – from tiramisu (£4.95) to affogato (£4.60).

I fancied the pannacotta with Amaretto and peaches (£4.95), which was up on the specials board. Sold out. So I ordered the vanilla and rum pannacotta with candied orange (£4.75) instead. Then, seconds afterwards, changed my mind, and thought I’d go for the gelato (£3.95).

This was probably the only moment when it was obvious that we were in a chain restaurant.

Our waitress gave me a withering stare, then called her supervisor to help change our order on the till (this place is a well-oiled machine, and we were the grit).

Also, although the “gelati artigianali” ice-cream that I’d chosen comes as two scoops in a choice of four flavours (strawberry, vanilla, arabica coffee and bitter chocolate), I wasn’t able to try more than one of those varieties unless I wanted to pay double.

A shame, as I wanted to test drive the latter two, but could only have a double pompom of the coffee one – which was fine, if a bit ice-crystally.

Rolf’s dessert – the pasticcio di cioccolato (£4.95), or chocolate bread and butter pudding – was much nicer, with a gooey centre of pulpy raisins and dark chocolate, plus a blanket of smooth vanilla-flecked cream.

Glasgow is lucky to have Carluccio’s (which is, incredibly, open from 8am until 11pm every day of the week).

I might call Toni and tell him that, but I don’t think he’ll take the compliment.

Carluccio’s

7 West Nile Street, Glasgow (0141-248 1166, www.carluccios.com)

How much?

Dinner for two, excluding drinks, £43.70