Recommended restaurant: Just put yourself in the capable hands of good old Uncle Mulroy

FROM the slightly eccentric gentleman in tweed who welcomes you at the door, to the crystal decanters on the sideboards, visiting The Mulroy is like visiting a wealthy uncle’s home. Split between two rooms, there is an intimacy that is lost in many larger restaurants, and the moment I saw the tweed dining room chairs, I never wanted to leave.

If I had a wealthy uncle who could cook as well as the chef at The Mulroy, I would probably have drawn up the adoption papers immediately. Having trained in a two Michelin star restaurant in Cannes, Damien Rolain effortlessly combines fresh local ingredients with his French know-how.

Having admired the silver cutlery and candle sticks until I ran out of adjectives, the starters arrived. I had the Port Seton langoustine and tomato ragout squid ink ravioli (£12). It was a beautiful rainbow of colours on the plate, with the indigo pasta floating in the pink bisque. The ravioli was a little tough at the edges, but the filling was divine. The Spaniard opted for the Scottish hare and foie gras terrine en croute. At a surprisingly affordable £11.50 it was meaty, indulgent and perfectly complemented by the kumquat chutney.

My main was a feast of local pork composed of confit belly, braised cheek and a delicate bundle of rich trotter and thyme (£18.25). The Spaniard opted for the Inveraray venison, which was served a deep pink and with a peculiar little bite size pie and an unusual combination of green apple and parsnip puree which resulted in a deliciously unique dish.

On the recommendation of the maitre d’ we settled on the chef’s signature tarte tatin and the dark chocolate crème brûlée for dessert. With a more affordable pre-theatre and lunch menu offering two courses for £11.50, I might be able to make myself at home more often. The Mulroy, 11a-13a William Street EH3 7NG, 0131 225 6061

LINDSEY ROBERTSON