Merry citrus

Claire Macdonald

Clementines are the best, but they too can vary in flavour and juiciness. Avoid the very small ones, and I also reject paler-skinned clementines – these seem to lack taste. The vibrantly orange clementines appear to be more dependable when it comes to good eating.

And clementines form such a useful part of seasonal pudding making. We always have a clementine mousse to accompany the Christmas pud for dinner on Christmas evening. But the densely textured clementine cake would be a delicious alternative to Christmas pudding, especially if eaten with the clementine syllabub, (both recipes to follow). And baked clementine and caramel creams are just another idea to make use of this seasonal fruit. Clementines can also be used for decorative purposes. A glass dish piled high with the fruit looks beautiful when surrounded by tea-lights. And if you can, seek out clementines still on their stalks, with their leaves, for added effect.

Clementine and almond cake

Serves 8, but it keeps well for several days

4 clementines halved, any seeds removed, and the halved clementines poached in water for 25-30 minutes, with the pared rind of half a lemon

3oz/85g caster sugar

8oz/220g soft butter

8oz/220g caster sugar

4 large eggs

8oz/220g dry-fried ground almonds

Line a 9in/22cm diameter spring-form cake tin with a disc of baking parchment. Poach the halved clementines first, and when their skins feel soft when stuck with a fork, add the 3oz/85g sugar to the saucepan, stirring well to dissolve the sugar – don’t be tempted to add the sugar as the clementines poach, because their skins won’t soften if you do. Cool the clementines in the sweetened water, then drain off the water and whiz the clementine halves and the pared lemon rind in a food processor to a thick purée.

Beat together the soft butter and remaining caster sugar till very pale. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, and alternate the eggs with a spoonful of cooled toasted ground almonds. When both are incorporated, mix the clementine purée in thoroughly, then scrape this mixture into the prepared cake tin and bake in a moderate heat, 350F/180C/Gas Mark 4 for 45-50 minutes – the cake should still be sticky. Cool in its tin for 10 minutes, then turn it onto a wire cooling rack to complete its cooling. Serve, turned right way up and dusted with sieved icing sugar.

Clementine syllabub

Serves 6 in small glasses or cups

4oz/110g granulated sugar

finely grated rind of 4 well-washed and dried clementines and their juice

juice of half a lemon

¾ pint/450ml double cream

Measure the sugar into a saucepan and add the grated rinds and juices of the clementines, and the lemon juice. Over moderate heat, stir until the sugar has dissolved completely, then take the pan off the heat and cool the citrus syrup.

Whip the cream, gradually adding the cooled citrus syrup, and whip to a thick consistency which just holds its shape.

Divide evenly between the 6 glasses or cups, and garnish, if you like, with a grating of dark chocolate.

Baked clementine and caramel creams

Serves 6

8oz/220g granulated sugar

¾ pint/425ml single cream

1 large egg mixed well with 4 large egg yolks and

3oz/85g caster sugar

finely grated rind of 4 clementines, well washed and dried first

Put the granulated sugar into a heavy-based saucepan over moderate heat. Shake the pan from time to time, but do not be tempted to use a spoon, ever. Very gradually, as the sugar heats it will start to dissolve. As you see this happening, shake the pan to help the sugar dissolve evenly.

When you have a molten caramel, pour it carefully into each of 6 ramekins. You may need to heat the caramel pan during the course of this, as the caramel in the pan cools and thickens. Then heat the cream and beat it into the egg, yolks and sugar mixture. Add the grated clementine rinds, and divide this mixture between the ramekins. Put the ramekins into a roasting tin with nearly boiling water poured in, to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake in a low moderate heat, 300F/150C/Gas Mark 3 for 25-30 minutes - the cream within the ramekins should barely wobble.

Cool the baked set creams. Store them in a cool place, ideally a larder.

The following day, or before serving, run a knife around the inside of each ramekin, and shake out each cream onto a plate to serve. Alternatively, you can serve the creams in their ramekins. Serve 3 segments of peeled clementine at the side of each caramel cream.