Food: Oysters can make a pearl of a meal

OYSTERS have a long tradition in Scottish cuisine. Once abundant in coastal waters up and down the country, oysters were thought to have disappeared from the Firth of Forth around the 1920s.

Imagine the surprise of the lucky aquaculturist who found the first batch of oysters last November on the shoreline of the Forth, putting this highly-prized delicacy back on the map.

The banks of the Forth used to be the major oyster fishery in Scotland and were reported to produce a whopping 30 million oysters a year. Many of these would be shipped all over the world, yet the pick of the catch would be kept for Scottish tables.

Oysters were a staple for both gentry and peasants alike, all enjoying the unique taste and versatility of these bivalved molluscs.

When buying oysters there are two types available, either the natives or the pacific (rock). The rock oysters are less expensive and are noted for having a larger and longer shell.

A good rule for keeping in mind is that they are best consumed in a month with an 'R' in it, September to April. This is because during the summer months, oysters are in their spawning period and the flesh becomes milky and unpleasant to eat. So make the most of the short season still available.

Oysters for breakfast may not be the most obvious way to start the day but it's reputed that Casanova used to gobble down 50 every morning. Who can argue with that sterling endorsement of the health properties attributed to oysters?

Although oysters are more traditionally eaten raw, they do add a luxurious edge to home cooking. Musselburgh Pie is a classic dish from the east coast. This takes strips of beef wrapped in oysters, lightly fried with onions and seasoned flour and then topped with any juices left in the shell and a pastry lid. This is home cooking the way your granny did it.

If cooking these delicious yet delicate beauties in a rich pie doesn't appeal, why not try lightly grilling them?

Top with breadcrumbs, herbs and grated Parmesan for a sumptuous starter and grill lightly for two to three minutes.

As the rock oyster is a little kinder on the wallet than other varieties, it's a dish that can be made quickly and relatively cheaply. Serve grilled oysters with a fresh green salad for a perfect elegant midweek supper.

A good fishmonger will be able to help you with selecting the best oysters and give you tips on the best way to store and cook them.

Always keep in mind that the very best oysters are the unopened ones as they are still live and fresh. A strong knife, preferably an oyster knife, and a thick tea towel to protect your hands is all that's needed to prepare at home.

• Craig Sandle is head chef of the Michelin-starred Number One at The Balmoral, www.thebalmoralhotel.com, 0131-556 2414