When Glasgow’s Bread Meats Bread opened a branch on Lothian Road in Edinburgh back in 2016, burgers were having a moment, as they do every few years.
Here we are again, in the beef patty zone, with Butta opening a second branch, Luxford springing up at The Pleasance, and everyone in the mood for some post-pandemic winter comfort food.
Thus, after five years in the capital Bread Meats Bread are opening a huge flagship branch at 7 North Bridge on Thursday December 2. It’s taken them a couple of months to strip out the pizza ovens that were part of the Prezzo restaurant that occupied this huge venue, which overlooks Waverley Station and is opposite The Scotsman Hotel.
Look out for the red and white neon sign above the door, or the ones inside, with slogans including “nobody puts BMB in the corner”.
I remember a few menu offerings from my last visit, though I’m sure there wasn’t as much poutine, kimchi, hard shakes or Moving Mountains vegan burgers. Well, it’s been a few years. I feel ancient when I ask for the Watermelon Shugga (£8) cocktail, since I pronounce it Shug-ha, instead of getting the obvious Harry Styles reference. It’s a fishbowl-sized drink containing Malfy Original Gin, Limoncello, lime juice, watermelon syrup and lemonade.
According to the waitress, there are a couple of things that are new to their flagship, including the starters of Pretzel Bites, which we try in Salted (£3.90), Garlic Parmesan (£5.50) and Truffle (£5.50), each of which come with a dip. There are about six in each tray, and we manage about four of the 18 before tapping out.
From the huge burger selection - there must be about 40 on there - we try the two newbies.
The Truffle Shuffle (£11) - buttermilk fried chicken with rocket, Parmesan, smoky mozzarella and their new truffle shuffle mayo, and the Posh BMB (£11) with smoky mozzarella, grilled mushrooms, crispy bacon, slow cooked onions and yet more truffle mayo. The portions of chips (£3.50) are humongous - one would easily serve two, or three - and I’m impressed by some other diners who are managing poutine as a side dish.
Take your appetite, and remember that Shugga is pronounced sugar.