The architecture fan who compiled the ultimate list of 200 of Edinburgh's best buildings

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Auld Reekie’s buildings never fail to make the heart soar.

If you agree, but sometimes wonder exactly what you’re looking at, then you’ll enjoy a new book, The Pocket Guide to Edinburgh’s Best Buildings by Robin Ward, which is the ideal size to stuff in a waterproof anorak.

It’s a celebration of the city’s built environment, from the medieval Old Town to the Georgian New Town, via the Greek Revival monuments on Calton Hill and all the funny wee buildings that can be discovered along wynds and closes.

The book features 200 buildings in total, as well as a scattering of monuments and sculptures, with information on each. Among others, you can find out the potted history of The Thistle Chapel in St Giles’ High Kirk, McEwen Hall, The Playfair Library, Fettes, Leith Old Harbour, and Sugarhouse Close.

It’s also divided into six self-guided tours that are designed for walking, cycling, public transport or car.

We asked Ward to tell us more, see below.

What’s your history with Edinburgh?

I’ve been living in Edinburgh since back in 2000. I was previously in Vancouver, where I was the architecture critic at the Vancouver Sun and I also lived in London, when I was a graphic designer with the BBC. I was born and raised in Glasgow and graduated from Glasgow School of Art.

Can any other Scottish cities, or world cities compare to Edinburgh?

None! Seriously though, if you’re considering castles, Stirling is comparable. Of the world cities I’ve visited, the picturesque historic centre of Prague, like Edinburgh, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with a castle and old and new towns, comes close.

What’s unique about the Scottish capital?

It’s the setting— a landscape dominated by an extinct volcano, as well as the city’s medley of architectural styles: from medieval, Renaissance and Scots Baronial in the Old Town to Greek Revival and Georgian in the new one. And of course, the fake Parthenon folly on Calton Hill.

How did the book come to be?

Before the Covid lockdowns, I did a tour on Doors Open Days and I ended up visiting several buildings that I’d never seen before, among them Mansfield Traquair Centre, aka “Edinburgh’s Sistine Chapel”, which is decorated with glittering murals that are rarely seen by the public. Also, Trinity House Maritime Museum in Leith, full of fascinating memorabilia, and Dalmeny Kirk, the most complete Romanesque parish church in Scotland. I realised that there’s more to Edinburgh than the Old and New Towns, which, of course, are featured in the book, along with many places of interest outside the World Heritage Site.

How long did the book take to compile?

It was several years off and on between other projects. It kept me busy with research during the pandemic. The Royal Mile with no tourists during lockdown was intriguing and spooky, like a medieval ghost town.

What’s your favourite building of them all?

It’d have to be The National Portrait Gallery. Edinburgh is known as the Athens of the North because of its Greek Revival architecture and The Portrait Gallery is something else—Venetian Gothic outside and festooned with statues, with Robert the Bruce and William Wallace guarding the entrance. You’re greeted in the Great Hall by a marble effigy of Burns and a frieze of characters from Scotland’s past. The collection inside is so revealing of Scotland and its people, and is captivating. There’s a good café too.

What’s your favourite modern building?

The Scottish Parliament. Controversial, but it has settled comfortably into the historic fabric of the Old Town, as its architects intended.

Any buildings that you don't like that you felt compelled to include?

Ha ha! The massive St James Quarter development forced itself into the book. The best that can be said is that it replaced the Sixties St James Centre, which everyone agrees was a concrete monstrosity.

Are there any buildings in the book that are lesser known and don't get the attention they deserve

Yes, for example Craigsbank Church, constructed in the Sixties. Its sunken sanctuary is said to symbolise the hidden hillside hollows where Covenanters once worshipped during the ‘killing times’ of the 17th century. Nearby Corstorphine Old Parish Church is also wonderful and less well known outside the community than it should be.

Any that aren't looked after well enough and are at risk?

The Astley Ainslie Hospital has several heritage buildings facing an uncertain future. They are set in a biodiverse landscape acknowledged for its therapeutic value in NHS Lothian Charity’s recent Greenspace Management Plan. Edinburgh Council’s City Plan 2030, adopted late last year, anticipates the construction of 500 houses and flats on the site. Astlie Ainslie Community Trust says the property is “a treasured public asset” and that it should stay that way. It’s one to watch.

Are there any buildings that didn't make the cut that you wish you had space to include?

To keep the book portable for the self-guided tours, many buildings had to be left out. Edinburgh College of Art’s main building, which has a splendid neoclassical sculpture court is one. Instead, I chose the adjacent former Central Fire Station, which was recently acquired by the College of Art.

What are your thoughts on the W hotel building?

I thought you’d ask me this! It’s architects showing off and is completely inappropriate for the World Heritage Site. They should have been shown the door.

Who do you hope will read the book?

I’d say fans of Auld Reekie and anyone who’s keen to know more about its best buildings and the compelling stories that the stones tell.

The Pocket Guide to Edinburgh’s Best Buildings by Robin Ward is out in March, £9.99, Birlinn