How one isolated Scottish island is surviving the lockdown

The 16 residents who call the island home are used to isolation. But how do they cope during lockdown when they are 19 miles away from the mainland, food and fuel?

A boat approaches the Isle of Canna, which sits to the south west of Skye. Normally preparing for the busy Spring and Summer season, the island's harbour remains closed to most traffic, the guesthouse is closed and the cafe shut due to coronavirus with islanders facing unique challenges as lockdown hits this isolate spot. PIC: NTS.

Canna in the Small Isles off Skye is normally busy at this time of year as it gears up for the tourist season, with 15,000 visitors usually expected over the spring and summer months.

But now, like everywhere, life is being redefined.

Some residents are in self-isolation, social distancing is the norm and getting vital supplies to the island can be a major challenge.

Harbourmaster Donald Mackenzie, who is employed by National Trust for Scotland, has spoken of the challenges facing the island community during the coronavirus pandemic.

The harbour is empty, the guesthouse and cafe closed and there is not a tent on the campsite to be seen. Days merge into one.

As Donald Mackenzie, harbourmaster at Canna for the National Trust for Scotland, put it: “Our daily lives are not governed by the normal days of the week, rather it is whether it is a “ferry” day or not”.

Food deliveries come from the Co-op at Mallaig, a shop that also serves the other Small Isles of Eigg, Rum and Muck.

Normally, orders can be placed the night before and placed on the ferry next day but with items now restricted to two per order and the ferry timetable cut to twice a week, islanders are looking at getting four tins of tomatoes, or say four pints of milk, for the week.

Around 15,000 people visit Canna over the Spring and Summer but the island remains shut down, with only its 16 residents to be found.

Mr Mackenzie said: “Given the difficulties in the supply chain at the moment we sometimes struggle to get everything we order. The supermarket does its best however it is trying to supply all four of the Small Isles as well as the population of Mallaig.”

Although the cafe on Canna is now closed, its owner has been able to source some extra items from suppliers for his neighbours.

Moving rubbish off the island can also be a headache with islanders relying on new skips being sent by Highland Council but a mixture of weather-related ferry cancellations and travel restrictions have hampered this.

Mr Mackenzie has lived on Canna since 2015 along with his wife, award winning Gaelic singer Fiona Mackenzie who also works for the Trust as Canna House Manager and Archivist.

He describes his job as “one of the best in Scotland” and is responsible for the safe navigaation for the hundreds of vessels that visit the island every year, as well as the safe berthing of the Cal Mac ferry, Lochnevis.

Before moving to the island he worked in business management and finance but would now not swap his life “for anything”.

But, as the coronavirus pandemic shuts down event the most isolated place, the loss of normality is being keenly felt on Canna.

Mr Mackenzie said: “As Spring approaches we are normally getting ready for the busy tourist season which sees around 15,000 visitors descend on the island to enjoy the rich wildlife and wonderful scenery.

“Canna is a popular destination for yachts and cruise ships with as many as 30 yachts in the bay at night and more than 80 cruise ships last year.

“This year it is different. After one of the stormiest winters locals can remember, when 30% of ferry sailings were cancelled, we were looking forward to better weather and a breathing space before the visitors start arriving.

“The Coronavirus pandemic has changed all that.”

Summer repair and maintenance programmes, which are essential to safe winters, have been put on hold with work at both Canna House and the harbour postponed given contractors cannot reach the island.

But island people are, of course, naturally ressilient.

Mr Mackenzie said: “If anything breaks down we have to call on our own resources to get by. Fortunately, as a community there are a wide range of skills available and we work together to solve problems as they arise.”

Islander Murdo Jack and his mini-excavator are waiting for a good spell of weather to regrade the road. During recent storms, tonnes of seaweed was dumped all over the road with the community digging in to remove the debris by hand.

Mr Mackenzie added: “A range of essential pier infrastructure repairs are now on hold until the pandemic is over but these need to be carried out before next winter’s inevitable storms.

“It is critical to the island’s survival that the pier and harbour are in good condition as it is the only means of servicing the island.

“Canna House is due major renovation works in preparation for its re-opening to the public and this has had to be delayed under the current circumstances.

“This is a blow to the island and a significant investment but we are confident that time will be caught up.”

In the case of a medical emergency, patients are taken to hospital by the Coastguard helicopter from Stornoway or the Mallaig lifeboat.

The helicopter can get to Canna in around 30 minutes and have a casualty or patient in hospital in Fort William in under 15 minutes.

Mr Mackenzie said: “Despite everything we are carrying on our lives and work as usual and we are a very resilient community. “

Like possibly everyone in the world right now, Mr Mackenzie said he was looking forward to the return of normal times.

He said: “Naturally we are all looking forward to the end of this pandemic and getting our lives back to normal.

“Hopefully we will be able to open up the island to visitors before the end of the season as the income they provide is much needed by the island businesses and the NTS.

“As the person who is usually the first point of contact for all visitors to Canna I am particularly looking forward to welcoming back our many repeat visitors especially the yachts who keep coming back year after year to enjoy what is one of the best anchorages on the west coast and of course Canna’s unique and beautiful scenery.”

Somethings do remain the same on Canna, however. It is business as usual on the farm where new calves and lambs are making their first appearance in the world. A very different world perhaps, but proof that not everything has changed.