The cook school producing thousands of meals for those in need during Covid-19

In a city with four Michelin-starred restaurants, it is a largely unheralded kitchen, but one which is proving to be a force for good, and a lifeline to those in need.
Sue O’Neill-Berest, food education manager for Cyrenians. Picture: Lisa FergusonSue O’Neill-Berest, food education manager for Cyrenians. Picture: Lisa Ferguson
Sue O’Neill-Berest, food education manager for Cyrenians. Picture: Lisa Ferguson

When the Flavour and Haver cook school was opened by guest of honour, Prue Leith, two years ago, it undertook to bring people together through food.

Now, in the midst of the Covid-19 pandemic, it is fulfilling that promise with aplomb, and in a way no one could have imagined.

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The Leith facility, part of the Cyrenians charity, has been transformed into a round the clock kitchen, providing meals for those most at risk from the virus, as well as frontline workers across Edinburgh.

Stations ordinarily used to help aspiring cooks master new skills are now being staffed by shifts of volunteers, including professional chefs who have been furloughed during the lockdown.

Together, they are producing around 5,000 healthy, freezer-ready meals a week, a mammoth undertaking in extraordinary circumstances.

Sue O’Neill-Berest, food education manager at the Cyrenians, has been bowled over by the response from volunteers - and the impact they are having.

“We have staff who have been furloughed who are continuing to come in, volunteer their time, and cook an enormous amount of food, and we have around 25 volunteers, three of four of whom were regulars,” she explained.

“The evening shift has been largely staffed by chefs and people working in the food industry who have been furloughed, but wanted to help.

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“Some people have drifted back to work, which is obviously great for them, but we are finding new volunteers coming forward through word of mouth, and a whole new contingent of chefs have come in through John Newton at Apex Hotels and Scottish Chefs.

“They’re now coming in on a Saturday and really cooking up a storm.”

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Throughout lockdown, the charity has met a drastic increase in demand, with its FareShare depot, located opposite the cook school in Leith’s Jane Street, redistributing more than 200 tonnes of food, the equivalent of around 390,000 meals.

The depot is integral to the work of the charity, which tackles the causes and consequences of homelessness. Using surplus food from the supply chain, it redistributes it further afield to help address food poverty.

Its outreach team has continued to provide meals from the cook school, emergency food packages, as well as advice and emotional support, while it has also reached out online to help families and older people who are struggling.

For Sue, a trained pastry chef and cake designer, the experience has reaffirmed the importance of the social contact the charity offers, as well as the sustenance it provides.

“We’ve had some wonderful feedback from people, and it’s not just about the food,” she added. “When a meal is delivered to them, it’s often the only time in the week that they speak to another person.

“A lot of people who would have come to our community cook club would already have been experiencing loneliness and isolation, but they can still have a wee socially distanced chat as well as enjoying the food.”

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