Walk of the week: Dunbeath Water, Caithness

DUNBEATH Water is the setting for Highland River by Neil Gunn, who was born in Dunbeath in 1891. The novel follows a journey from sea to source, and to retrace the steps is one of the best walks I have ever done – taking in the desolate land of Caithness; raw, rugged countryside.

At the start, history is obvious – from an Iron Age broch, dating back 2,500 years to Prisoner’s Leap Gorge, where it is said Ian McCormack Gunn leapt to his freedom after being captured by the Keiths. But once past the white-walled Tutnaguail cemetery, the land becomes empty. Stone buildings that were once homes were abandoned following the Clearances, leaving only eagles, deer and the constant chatter of moorland birds.

The source – Loch Braigh na h-Aibhne – is the highlight of the walk, with the conical summit of Morven behind.

Note that there is no path for much of the way but navigation is easy because you are following a river. But do take plenty of supplies because of the number of miles covered. n

DISTANCE 25 miles. HEIGHT CLIMBED 1,000ft. TIME 12 to 14 hours. MAP OS Landranger 17. PARKING Turn off the A9 after a bridge at Dunbeath. Follow the road to the left and before a stone bridge go left. Park at the harbour.

IN SUMMARY Follow the road back to the junction where you turned left, then go right. Go right again to a car park and follow a grassy path along Dunbeath Water, upstream. Cross a bridge and follow a path left. The path gradually bears right before climbing steeply to eventually meet a fence. Go right and follow the fence until you reach a track and gate. Go left. The track leads across moorland to Tutnaguail cemetery.

Drop through ruined houses to Achnaclyth. Pass farm buildings, descending on the far side and going through a gate to the left. Bear right and cross a field with a mound of stones in the middle. Go right, along a wall, then left through a gate and over a bridge.

There is no path for the next five miles but keep by the river. After a couple of miles you pass the ruins of Pollroy. At an estate track, cross over and continue by the river, just a foot wide here. The river then virtually disappears as it nears the source. Follow the left shore and at the far end go straight on for about 500 yards to a track. Go left and walk under the shadow of Morven for three miles to a junction. Go right. Three miles on is Braemore, then it’s six miles of single-track road back to Dunbeath.

REFRESHMENTS The Bay Owl, above Dunbeath harbour.

WHILE IN THE AREA Dunbeath Heritage Centre (www.dunbeath-heritage.org.uk) has a great exhibition on Neil Gunn.