Walk of the Week: The ruins of Steall

Last week I described a glorious day on Buachaille Etive Mor; a day transformed by the sudden change from thick low cloud to clear blue skies; a glorious Indian summer day of no breeze and warm in the sun. The next day I headed to Fort William to climb Aonach Beag. Despite the morning's low clouds I was still hoping for another grand day.

Usually approached from the north on a traverse over Aonach Mor, with many using the gondola, Aonach Beag is not often climbed on its own. My plan was to tackle it from Glen Nevis.

Because of its varied nature and its association with Ben Nevis, Glen Nevis is well known to many a tourist, hillwalker and climber. Despite its modest length, it quickly changes, with a gentle strath beneath the mighty bulk of the (hidden) Ben leading to the Nevis gorge, then a sudden break through to the almost level and secretive upper glen, a place of relative solitude after the bustling lower glen. The hordes of walkers around the start of the Ben Nevis path may be a bit off-putting, but numbers diminish on driving up the twisting glen. The road may seem to go on forever … until the sudden appearance of a large car park and turning area, at map ref 167691.

It used to be that few progressed any further, but nowadays, with a much-improved path, the number heading through the gorge to the upper glen is much higher; progressing possibly as far as the ruins of Steall. That is the walk below, albeit my intention was then to leave the path for a superb approach to Aonach Beag, the seventh-highest Munro at an easily remembered 1,234m.

Although the short walk is shown on Ordnance Survey map 41, Ben Nevis, Fort William & Glen Coe, in truth a map is not required; simply follow the path.

The car park is at a height of 150m, the Steall ruins at 230m, but with undulations along the way, the overall climb over some two miles is just over 100m. The walk from the Glen Nevis road end has everything. The path by the tumbling turmoil of the Water of Nevis leads to the Nevis gorge, with its jumble of large boulders sculpted into amazing curves and whorls by the pounding river. There is then a complete transformation on breaking through into the upper glen and the first sight of An Steall, the 100m-high waterfall on the far bank formed by the Allt Coire a'Mhail crashing from a hidden corrie. Just before the waterfall, look out for a wire bridge, a three-hawser affair that spans the Water of Nevis above a deep pool, and not for the faint-hearted. This grassy area is a good picnic spot. Continue on the good path through the upper glen to where the Allt Coire Giubhsachan joins the Water of Nevis. Cross the wooden bridge to the ruins of Steall.

I intended to climb Aonach Beag via a traverse of its two subsidiary tops, starting with Sgurr a'Bhuic. Only 963m high, this peak of the roebuck, though modest by comparison with its parent, is a shapely point of a south-east escarpment overlooking the glen. Off I set into the thick mist. The summit of Sgurr a'Bhuic, perched beside the cliff edge, is an excellent viewpoint… but not on this day. I waited a long while, hoping for a cloud inversion, but none there came. By now distinctly chilled and knowing that Aonach Beag has a surprisingly small, mossy summit, with a tiny cairn perched perilously close to the hill's north-east face, prudence won the day. I navigated back to the glen. Not that I was too disappointed. After all I had had a scenic walk in a wonderful glen; a good and interesting walk for the family… and a hillwalker.

Map Ordnance Survey map 41, Ben Nevis, Fort William & Glen Coe

Distance 4 miles

Height 100m

Terrain Good path, though bouldery in places

Start point Glen Nevis road end car park, map ref 167691

Time 2 to 3 hours

Nearest town Fort William

Nearest refreshment spot A wide choice in Glen Nevis and Fort William

• This article was first published in The Scotsman on November 6, 2010