Walk of the week: Lochnagar

I climbed Lochnagar last year using the upgraded Glas Allt path from the west end of Loch Muick; a circular route over White Mounth and its subsidiary Tops, returning by Cuidhe Crom and Little Pap. However, the shortest and hence possibly the most popular route to Lochnagar starts from the north end of the loch, using the car park at the end of the Glen Muick public road. Not that Lochnagar should be underestimated, but with a starting height of 400m, then a good track and path, the mighty 1155m/3789ft summit can be tackled in five to six hours …assuming good weather.

The popular route also serves well for the short diversion to Meikle Pap and I hoped to continue to the main summit and then descend northwards to Meall Coire na Saobhaidhe; two of my outstanding Tops on this round of Munros. That was the plan on what was a raw day of gale force wind, such a change from the recent spell of warmish weather.

The route

From the car park, follow the signposted track route, turning right at Spittal of Glenmuick and head for Allt-na-giubhsaich. At that stage leave the track at the right of the building and follow the rough but pretty path, again signposted, which cuts through the plantation. The strong wind on my visit was quite dramatic at this point. Once clear of the trees, rejoin the now sandy track through the gently rising heathery moorland, with distant views of Cuidhe Crom and Little Pap.

The track eases the climb and crosses the Allt na Giubhsaich, though it becomes rougher higher up, by then well above the ravine of the stream.

Look out for the cairn marking the spot where the well-made Lochnagar path leaves the track and descends slightly at first to the watershed (map ref 273861). By now at 700m, it is then a 200m climb to the col below Meikle Pap. On my day there was still quite a lot of snow leading to the col though the Pap itself was clear. Do make the detour to the Pap; it does not take long and is a fine platform if only to get a better view of the Lochnagar crags, the steep frowning glories as expressed by Byron.

I had a bit of a struggle climbing the Pap, though that was nothing compared to the conditions on top where I had to go on hands and knees over the summit tors. Although the wind was forecast to ease during the day, I decided not to continue to the Munro summit, preferring a more sheltered route to Meall Coire na Saobhaidhe.

For those intent on the main summit on a good day, the path goes generally south-west from the col and up the slope of the Ladder to reach the edge of the crags, where it gradually swings north round the plateau to reach the large tor of Cac Carn Mor. After a slight drop, with the Black Spout gully on the right, a gentle rise leads to the tor of Cac Carn Beag; the popularity of this route all too sadly betrayed by the massively eroded final strip. Graced with both trig point and viewfinder, Cac Carn Beag is just 5m higher than Cac Carn Mor.

I descended northwards from Meikle Pap, then west over rough ground, with the wind gradually easing, to the north end of the small loch nestling below the awesome crags. The loch that eventually gave its name to the whole mountain (Loch-na-Gar, although these days it is Lochnagar, same as the hill) is frequented by climbers, but very seldom visited by hillwalkers. It is like another world. I then contoured into Coire na Saobhaidhe, then climbed Meall Coire na Saobhaidhe, this time with a strong breeze rather than the gale of a few hours before. It was a long trudge back over rough ground to regain the track by the watershed.

The facts

MAPs

Ordnance Survey map 44, Ballater & Glen Clova

Distance

11 miles

Height

800m

Terrain

Good track to summit

Start point

Loch Muick car park, map ref 310851

Time

5 to 6 hours

Nearest town

Ballater

Nearest refreshment spot

The Bothy, Ballater

This article was first published in The Scotsman on 15 May.