Walk of the Week: Beinn Alligin

Beinn Alligin, possibly meaning beautiful or jewelled mountain, while lacking the awesome terraces of Liathach, is still typically Torridonian and forms a beautiful, almost symmetrical, south-east facing crescent with Tom na Gruagaich near the southern end, the Horns of Alligin to the north-east and Sgurr Mhor in the middle.

Sgurr Mhor is known locally as Sgurr na Tuaigh, “peak of the hatchet”, referring to Alligin’s unmistakeable geological feature just south of the summit – a dark 500m-deep fracture between two sheer walls, Eag Dhubh na h-Eigheachd, “gash of the wailing”. The local legend is that shepherds often heard shouting noises from this cleft, but when one shepherd, investigating this, fell to his death, the noise ceased. The more prosaic explanation, the bleating of sheep or the sound of wind emanating from the cleft, should of course be ignored. Possibly occurring some 4,000 years ago, it is by far the most spectacular example in Scotland of a rock avalanche. Some nine million tonnes of debris cover the corrie floor – a ¾ mile expanse of large sandstone boulders and treacherous crevices, not advisable to cross.

In contrast to a previous wet, windy day, a few weeks ago Rhona and I had a marvellous outing; ideal weather for hillwalking, with visibility of crystal clarity. To extend the enjoyment on such a lovely day, we returned by a new route. Alligin falls within National Trust for Scotland (NTS) property and is thus free from stalking restrictions.

The car park off the Alligin road is a notorious midge trap, often hastening departure. A vastly improved path, almost hidden at first, starts from the west bank of the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nobuil. The initial section, going NNW, is particularly useful in crossing rough, terraced and bouldery ground. Once over a stile the gradient eases on the way to Coire nan Laogh. The path then follows the west bank of the Altan Glas into the corrie. Higher up, the path crosses to the east side, through an area that must have been a path-builder’s nightmare – fragile sandstone on steep slopes, all too easily eroded by rainstorm and boot.

From Tom na Gruagaich’s plateau, a sandy, sterile and cheerless place, head north-east to the 923m/3025ft summit. The trig point, on a knoll above the steep drop to Toll a’Mhadaidh, is a superb viewpoint from where to admire the Horns or look out to Skye and the Outer Hebrides.

The route to Sgurr Mhor, less than a mile distant, follows the rim of Toll a’Mhadaidh Mor. The 150m descent to a bouldery 767m col, the low point of the connecting ridge, is slabby and terraced, more a case of hands-to-rock at times rather than actual scrambling. The curving ridge then makes for easy walking. A minor 858m bump has a large cairn for some reason, possibly confusing on a misty day. Continue to Eag Dhubh na h-Eigheachd, then it is a short climb to 986m/3235ft Sgurr Mhor.

The easiest way back, ignoring the Horns, is to retrace steps. However, we descended westwards from the summit on easy grassy slopes then followed a new line of fence posts, contouring anti-clockwise beneath the steep western slopes of Tom na Gruagaich. We then descended south at a fence junction to reach the Alligin road a mile west of the car park.

Then high tea in Beauly – what a lovely way to end the day.

Map Ordnance Survey map 24, Raasay and Loch Torridon

Distance 6 miles

Height 1200m

Terrain Good path to summit ridge, then minor scramble

Start point Car park, south side of Alligin road, map ref 869575

Time 5 to 6 hours

Nearest village Torridon

Recommended refreshment spot Beinn Damh Inn, Torridon