Travel: Weekend Pass - The Sun Inn, Dalkeith

THIS newly refurbished boutique inn, just outside Dalkeith, is but a stone's throw from the centre of Edinburgh yet it couldn't be further from a flash city hotel. This is more of a cute and cosy bolthole, a hideaway from the hustle and bustle, where all you're after is a good pint, a meal and a newspaper for company. The traditional country inn has just a handful of rooms above the pub and restaurant, where all is log fires, exposed stone, wood panelling and oak floors.

It's refreshing to find a beautifully restored old building with such a modern, clean aesthetic, and the owners have got the look just right. There isn't so much as a whiff of chintz about the Sun Inn; this is all about a mellow night away, where everything is within easy reach, whether that's a meal in the gastropub downstairs, a riverside walk or a round of golf. Be aware, though – this is an inn on a main road and in the shadow of a viaduct, so it's not exactly a remote country retreat.

How do I get there? It couldn't be easier. The inn is on the A7, which isn't great for shutting the noise out but is very convenient for finding on the map. It's on the outskirts of Newtongrange, but if you don't fancy driving, jump on a bus from Edinburgh. It takes around 45 minutes and will more or less get you all the way to the door.

What's the food like? Think gastropub classics with a focus on local, seasonal produce and some truly outstanding desserts. It's a simple, comforting and small menu – venison, pork belly, haggis, stews and the like. The inn has just been awarded an AA rosette in recognition of its food, and the Sunday lunch comes with a formidable reputation. It has also just introduced afternoon tea between 2pm and 5pm, Monday to Saturday. We were in for dinner and I had a starter of queen scallops, which were sadly over-burdened with gruyere cheese, and a generous sirloin steak. But the desserts blew me away – in my case, an impossibly light slab of sticky toffee pudding surrounded by a moat of butterscotch sauce. I was so impressed I sent compliments to the chef.

Bed test Our very pleasant, contemporary room was one of five standard doubles. The handmade kingsize bed was wonderfully luxurious, thanks to the Egyptian cotton sheets, and we took full advantage of the flatscreen TV on the wall immediately in front of us, with every satellite channel you could wish for. Nevertheless, there were issues (some of which were possibly because there was a misunderstanding about our booking and they didn't know we were coming). We were overlooking the road so it was pretty noisy, and it wasn't ideal having to go down to the bar to ask for an extra towel because there was only one in the room. All in all, the service was hands-off to the point where it felt a bit embarrassing to ask for anything. The en-suite bathroom was disappointing too, with minimal products and a waterlogged bath mat.

Out and about The Sun Inn has plans to team up with the local Dalhousie Castle spa this year, and within a 50-mile radius are ten of the world's best golf courses. Riverside and woodland walks apparently start from within the grounds but when we said we fancied an amble in the morning after breakfast, we weren't told about them.

Little extras The biggest pull is the food and the inn itself, which boasts a wealth of lovingly restored features. There is also a suite with a bespoke copper bathtub and, interestingly, GHD hair-straighteners at your disposal – though quite why you would bother ironing your locks before going on a country walk or drinking a pint of ale I've no idea.

The bottom line The five standard doubles are 80 a night, or 60 if you're going solo. The suite costs 150.

This article was first published in Scotland on Sunday, February 14, 2010