Travel: Valencia

Aerial view of the old town in Valencia from the Serranos Gate. Picture: Getty Images

I was lucky enough to return with all of these things following a three-day trip to Valencia, which has long been on my wish list.

The new direct flight routes from Glasgow (Edinburgh will join with flight paths in October) made access easy. Driving through the city, I was fascinated by the antique architecture, especially that of the bridges, with their Parisian-style lights and broad pavements. One of the first intriguing discoveries a visitor makes is that they don’t actually cross a river. Having been hit by serious flooding problems in the 1950s, the city opted to reroute the Turia leaving a “green river” running through the city. Even more remarkable was the decision to fill this with a series of parks and sporting facilities for the people of Valencia. Throughout the trip, the pride that locals had in their wonderful facilities, open to all, became clear.

Despite such manifest attractions, as well as a remarkable history, in the grand scheme of things Valencia is unspoilt by tourism. Unlike Barcelona and other Spanish cities I have visited, such as Cordoba, Valencia has everything a tourist could wish for but without the usual congestion that creates. Apart from the odd Segway tour and the option of going on a boat trip, the usual tourist trappings were noticeably absent.

The Malvarrosa beach was exceptionally clean, relatively empty and almost private. Along the seafront, there weren’t the usual tabacs or shops selling buckets and spades, but rather a selection of fine restaurants filled with locals. There was also a glimpse of the past with the 19th century harbour sheds signifying the history of the port.

Following a lunch celebrating the fine local cuisine of the city at El Coso (www.elcoso.es), we visited the Royal Marina, an area that had seen considerable investment and change in the past decade due to the America’s Cup and the hosting of Formula 1. Having gained my first impressions of Valencia, it was time to see an alternative view of the city, with a Catamaran tour along the coast.

Dinner saw the traditional seafood paella (which was invented and in my opinion mastered in Valencia) at a local favourite, Civera (www.marisqueriascivera.com), before a quick nightcap.

I had never heard of Agua de Valencia before, and when it was suggested that we stop at Café de las Horas (www.cafedelashoras.com) for a drink I assumed it was a Spanish wine. It is in fact a cocktail combining cava (or Champagne), orange juice, vodka and gin, and while none of the alcohol in the agua could really be tasted, it was deceptively strong and packed quite a punch. A favourite with locals, this city centre bar prides itself on serving the best Agua de Valencia you’ll ever taste, so a visit is essential.

One of the easiest ways to see the city is to take advantage of their “green parks”, and a bike tour is an ideal way to do so. Cutting in and out of the city was easy following the “green river” and a bike tour allowed our party to travel through the cobbled streets as well as the modern roads with ease.

The centrepiece of the city is the Plaza de la Virgen and Cathedral quarter, offering 21 centuries of history at the heart of Valencia. As well as geographically, the cathedral is at the heart of all things in the city. It plays a vital part in its culture, as well as celebrating a number of religious festivals and, traditionally, pregnant women do nine laps of the cathedral with their partner each day in their final month to ensure a smooth birth.

From the historical centre, we shifted to modern Valencia, visiting the City of Arts and Sciences, a building that I could have been convinced had fallen from space. Following a quick dinner at Picap Bar (picapbar.com), we returned for another view of the science centre, this time from Ruzafa, an open-air night club.

As well as enjoying the hospitality at the bar, we had a stunning view of the science centre and the “I love the 90s” festival which saw thousands descend to enjoy an open air music festival. In no time at all, an area that had been empty during the day was now filled with thousands of music lovers and revellers.

On the final day the heavens opened and a trip to the world famous Bioparc was rained off. We did, however, get to experience the Silk Market and the famous rice fields just outside the city centre.

There we enjoyed a traditional paella lunch before heading for a remarkable meal at Kaymus (www.kaymus.com) restaurant. Greeted by the chef, we were treated to stunning dishes such as anemone platters and exotic sea foods and meats as well as a host of accompanying wines.

For all the traditional aspects of Spain, Valencia is not only embracing its history, but also more modern aspects to shape its future. I was staggered by the number of modern developments such as the new marina and the science centre, but also the local feel to the place.

Valencia has something for everyone and offers a flavour of Spain that is unique. With new flights from Edinburgh and Glasgow, this is a city that should go to the top of any bucket list.

Where to stay: Eurostars Gran Valencia has double rooms from €62.60 (£57), including breakfast www.eurostarsgranvalencia.com

Getting there: Ryanair has direct flights to Valencia from Glasgow, departing twice a week (on Fridays and Monday), and will also fly to Valencia from Edinburgh (Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays) starting on 2 November. Prices from £22 per person (one way), www.ryanair.com

City of Arts and Sciences: Tickets from €37.40 (£34) for the whole complex; www.cac.es

Bioparc: Tickets from €23.80 (£22); www.bioparcvalencia.es

Further information on Valencia: www.visitvalencia.com