Travel: The Scotsman Hotel, Edinburgh

WALKING through the doors of the Scotsman hotel, on Edinburgh's North Bridge, I was immediately transported to a time when journalists sat at clattering typewriters and the smell of ink and cigarettes filled the air.

A place in which deadline bells and shouts of "Copy!" were the only interruption to the roar of the printing press in the basement and the thunder of lorries delivering rolls of newsprint outside.

That, at least, was how it was for me when I started work experience at the Evening News as a 15-year-old schoolgirl, 20 years ago. The typewriters had given way to cumbersome computers by then, but the deep fog from endless cigarettes remained, creating a curious demi-light I found impossibly exotic.

The newspaper has long since moved to purpose-built offices near the Scottish parliament, and the magnificent building that was once its home has been transformed into The Scotsman, a five-star boutique hotel that forms part of the Eton Collection. I hadn't been back since my schooldays and half expected the former crime reporter to pop up with a thrilling grimace from behind the reception desk. Instead, a perfectly polite receptionist asked me if I'd like to check in.

Wining and dining? The restaurant has been cleverly converted from the newspaper's old reception hall. Head chef Spencer Wilson serves modern Scottish cuisine with seasonal menus focusing on ingredients of the highest quality and local provenance. Signature dishes include pan-seared Loch Tarbert scallops, black pudding, pea pure and cider, and rump of Perthshire lamb, pressed confit shoulder with potato, aubergine caviare, roast garlic and tomato. A glorious step up from the old camteen for The Scotsman.

Room service? Many of the Scotsman's guest rooms and suites are named after the hierarchy that once worked there. We stayed in the Publisher's Suite which felt a bit naughty, but a giant bed and rolltop bath in which we could sip drinks while enjoying superb views of the city went some way to quelling our nerves. Each bedroom has oodles of character and all of the comfort and attention to detail you would expect from a five-star hotel.

Worth getting out of bed for? The Scotsman is just a short stroll from the bustling shops of Princes Street and George Street, and the attractions of the Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle, the National Gallery and Scott Monument. But it's also a great location for the Hogmanay street celebrations over New Year, which are a mere five-minute walk away. If you feel like exploring further afield, Waverley station sits adjacent to the hotel on Market Street and the city's airport is a 25-minute drive away.

Budget or boutique? Since its conversion in 2001, the building has been voted one of the best small hotels in the world, and it refers to itself as boutique. I'm not sure if this does full justice to the majesty of the building, but with 56 guest rooms and 13 suites, it is much dinkier than it seems.

Hidden extras? The newspaper held its giant printing presses on the lower ground floor, and when they began to turn, the entire building resonated as the printing of the next day's news got underway. Now the press room houses an equally thumping state-of-the-art gym and luxury spa. For information on treatments see www.scotsmanspa.com

Guestbook comments? We'd love to go back for another nostalgia trip. Rates start at 270 a night, but you don't need to be staying over to sample the hotel's charms. Its bar has a carefully thought out wine and whisky list and is one of the city's most sophisticated hang-outs. The Scotsman, 20 North Bridge, Edinburgh (0131-556 5565, www.theetoncollection.com/scotsman).

• This article was first published in Scotland on Sunday, April 11, 2010