Travel: The Lake Hotel, Port of Menteith, Perthshire

NESTLED in the majestic Trossachs national park, the Lake of Menteith has become a tourist attraction not only because it is the only lake in Scotland but because it is home to a rich variety of wildlife. Sitting on the water's edge, the Lake of Menteith Hotel which dates back to the mid 19th century, was acquired by Scottish hotelier and restaurateur Ian Fleming in May 2005. Fleming is best known for running the Buttery restaurant, in Glasgow, before it was sold to the Two Fat Ladies group in 2007.

How do I get there? The hotel can only really be reached by car and is just over an hour away from Edinburgh and 45 minutes from Glasgow.

What's the food like? When I visited, the restaurant was between head chefs, but the kitchen pulled off food that would grace Holyrood Palace, let alone a country house hotel. The dinner menu, offering two courses for 28.50 and three courses for 34, offered four starters and five main courses. My hot smoked Shetland salmon with peppered leaves, vegetable crisps and green apple and cider dressing was one of the best dishes I have eaten in Scotland. For a simple bite, the Port Bar serves hearty fare such as home-made lasagne for under 10.

Bed test Inspired by New England interior design, Fleming has been refurbishing the hotel in that style and the result is that you feel as though you're spending the weekend at a grand old aunt's country house. "The hotel is all about the magnificent view over the lake," says Fleming.

Out and about There are plenty of activities including hiking and golfing and there's a fishery conveniently situated next door. However, the best activity is ordering a bottle of wine and enjoying the unrivalled view. We also took a boat trip out to the 13th-century Inchmahome Priory, which once sheltered Mary Queen of Scots, but at 4.70 per adult, this is perhaps best reserved for the summer months, when you can take a picnic.

Little extras The rooms are comfortable and homely and contain flatscreen televisions, but there's little extra that makes you want to spend a substantial amount of time in them. It's far more pleasant to be out on the lawn beside the lake or enjoying the Malt Vault, the hotel's collection of rare and expensive whiskies – including a 1959 Macallan, which will set you back a 185 for a 25ml nip.

The bottom line Rooms start from 130 per night, or 160 for one with a lake view.

This article was first published in Scotland on Sunday, January 31, 2010