Travel: The jungles of Malaysia

A little luxury, a little adventure: that was what I wanted from a holiday in Malaysia. The country's appeal had taken hold years back when I had read about the "Jungle Line" train that runs north-east from Kuala Lumpur through spectacular mountains and rainforest.

More recently, I had stumbled across The Datai, a secluded resort and spa at the tip of the island of Langkawi off the west of Malaysia's mainland. Gazing at the photographs on the hotel's website, it looked almost magical, nestled among the trees of a centuries-old virgin rainforest.

So the plan was this: start decadently at The Datai, then meander down the west coast to KL via Penang and Malacca enjoying some of the top-notch food, culture and history the country is famous for along the way.

After spending a few days enjoying the buzz of the capital, I would hop on the train and spend the final few days of my two-week trip relaxing in the Perhentian islands, known for their great beaches and great snorkelling.

The decision to kick off at The Datai was inspired. One of the hotel's biggest draws is its location and it makes a conscious effort to fit in to, rather than dominate, its environment. Guests are invited to join the resident naturalist, Irshad Mobarak, for daily morning and evening nature walks.

Mobarak has a lovely, gentle manner and his enthusiasm is infectious. It is humbling, as a city dweller who rarely considers such things, to be reminded just how clever nature is and how amazingly well it all fits together.

Shortly after our group ambled out into the dusk, Mobarak gathered us around a tree and, looking carefully around, surreptitiously teased back a flap of leaves covering the hole that was home to a baby tarantula. The reason for his stealth was that tarantulas are a local delicacy and if this one's location were revealed it would soon have become a delicious snack.

Other curious creatures include the mouse deer, which has the head of a mouse and the body of a mouse-sized deer, which I didn't see, and flying squirrels, which I did. Large pythons also lurk.

After four days enjoying The Datai, its idyllic private beach on the Andaman sea and its treetops restaurant, it was wrench to leave. But Penang beckoned.

In Georgetown I checked into the Straits Collection on Stewart Street, at the heart of the old town which has Unesco World Heritage City status.

My room was one of five former Chinese shop houses dating from 1927. The residence has a cute cafe attached, perfect for planning a day's sightseeing over a morning coffee or, in the evening, sipping a glass of wine and watching the world go by.

Georgetown is a wonderful place for walking and the sights are many. The top attraction for me was the beautifully restored Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion. In 1856, Cheong, 16 and penniless, set out from China to make his fortune in the "Land of Opportunity" as Southeast Asia was known. He had drive and ambition and succeeded in building up a vast business empire; he became known as the Rockefeller of the East.

The mansion, built before the end of the 19th century, is a traditional Chinese house but the craftsmanship and materials used are eclectic and so Scottish cast-iron balusters, English Art Deco stained glass windows and Chinese calligraphy are all features. Visitors can enter only as part of one of the twice daily guided tours.

Penang is known for its good food and during the day I sampled dishes from street stalls and hawkers. Georgetown's Thirty Two, however, rewarded me with the trip's best meal, serving up French cuisine with a twist of Asia to a clientele of well-heeled tourists, business people and locals.

A bog standard salad was made outstanding by the speciality house dressing. The almond fish was also superb. I was thrilled to learn from the waiter that the seaside mansion in which the restaurant is situated was a former opium den. The outside bar Beach Babylon is a great waterside setting for drinks.

By contrast, the famous Eastern & Oriental Hotel was a disappointment. I had timed my arrival there to merit a sundowner in Farquhar's Bar and was expecting Colonial-British similar to the delightful bars at Le Royal in Phnom Penh, the Metropole in Hanoi or The Strand in Rangoon.

Sadly, it was more akin to a Weatherspoon's, anywhere, complete with the large screen showing sports. I left without even mustering enthusiasm for an E&O sling.

Georgetown also offers good shopping. Both The Datai and my Georgetown hotel had hung exquisite fused-glass plaques. These, it turned out, were made by Penang artist Wong Keng Fuan whose gallery is on Armenia Street. It is well worth a visit.

After the charm of Georgetown, Melaka failed to meet expectations. The city also has Unesco World Heritage Site status but Jonker Street, one of the main thoroughfares through Chinatown, is crammed with shops selling tacky souvenirs and cheap clothes. Had I landed in Malacca prior to Penang, perhaps I would have appreciated it more. But as it was, I was happy to press on to KL. It was here that the flaw in my travel plan revealed itself: the start of November is not the time to be visiting the Perhentian Islands: it's monsoon season. The hotels I called ahead to book told me to ring back in February when they reopened

Despite my excitement about the train adventure, I decided to postpone it for another time: 14 hours one way was fine but a 28-hour round trip - without an island break - was too much.

I devoted myself, then, to KL, enjoying the Bird Park, which is the world's largest enclosed by netting, and the Islamic Arts Museum (which has a fantastic bookshop) one day, the stylish malls the next, and pottering round Chinatown on the third.

I had been told by a friend I had to visit Peter Hoe's shops. Peter Hoe Beyond is just across from the central market and offers pretty crafts and souvenirs.

Peter Hoe Evolution is hidden in the Lee Rubber Building round the corner and is more focused on home decor and design. His collection - curtains, throws and place mats - incorporates traditional Malaysian batik designs but is given a modern twist. It is the perfect place to find stylish gifts for the return home.

A Summer to Remember package at The Datai, with four days, three nights in a deluxe room, breakfast included, starts at about 1,500

Flights to Kuala Lumpur from Glasgow via Dubai start at 529.80. There are six Air Asia flights to Langkawi from KL per day starting at 40

This article was first published in Scotland On Sunday, 20 March, 2011