Travel: Take to the hills at Lochaber and Fort William

THE great outdoors – it's not just for Bear Grylls and that bloke who looks like Adrian Chiles.

As a trip to Lochaber proved, it can be great fun for all the family and basic enjoyment of some of Scotland's open-air activities doesn't require special skills or a daredevil spirit.

It helps, of course, to have a good base and the Ballachulish Hotel provided the ideal HQ for a short family break in the Lochaber and Fort William area that has successfully branded itself the Outdoor Capital of the UK.

The hotel is a splendid building which dominated the south side of the crossing point of Loch Linnhe long before the current bridge was built and would have been frequented by many of the Victorian travellers seeking the Highlands of Edwin Landseer and Walter Scott.

Arriving in the dark of a winter evening meant a real treat in the morning as the full glory of the hotel's location at the foot of Beinn a'Bheithir and looking across Loch Linnhe to Ardgour was revealed.

The previous evening's meal in the Bulas bistro was well-presented delicious and stylish but unpretentious, in keeping with the whole experience of the hotel, which also features a bar with plenty of malts and a blazing fire to keep visitors warm, both the inside and outside.

It's all very well enjoying a Scottish breakfast in the restaurant looking at the views through the picture windows but the point of a family outdoor break is, er, to get outdoors.

Having driven through one of Scotland most dramatic and atmospheric glens to get to Ballachulish – in the dark – it made sense to revisit it in the cold light of day (cold being the key word).

With the temperature below zero and the mountains having had an early coating of snow, the glen lived up to the spectacular stereotype of the Highlands in winter and offered a pleasant taste of what was to come later in the trip.

The story of the Macdonalds and Campbells is a familiar tale to most Scots and probably many visitors who seek out the glen of sorrow, but the National Trust for Scotland's Glencoe Visitor Centre tells the full story of both the history and geology of the area. There is also a signposted woodland walk with viewpoints.

A drive across the Ballachulish Bridge and up to Fort William and the Nevis Range ski centre provided an opportunity for some more adventurous activity, with a trip up the Aonach Mor gondola to the ski station a pleasure in itself.

For two girls, Mhairi, 13, and ten-year-old Edie, whose previous snowsports experience amounted to a bit of sledging in Dunfermline public park, a two-hour ski lesson was a daunting prospect but it was a huge success with both thoroughly enjoying the experience.

From the viewpoints accessible from the Snowgoose Restaurant at the top gondola station, the views from 2000-plus feet up on a clear day with the lochs and mountains glazed and frosted by winter were nothing short

of spectacular.

The evening featured another trip to Glencoe, this time to the historic Clachaig Inn for dinner.

The hotel and award-winning real ale pub is deep in the heart of Glencoe and has 23 rooms and the atmospheric Boots Bar (one of three), which has helped quench the thirst of generations of climbers and walkers. The lounge bar served up a pleasant and reasonably-priced meal.

The next day featured what was undoubtedly the highlight of the trip.

After a drive from Ballachulish, past Fort William on to Spean Bridge and up the side of Loch Lochy, Ian Macleod of Wild West Safaris was waiting at South Laggan.

His minibus provided transport deep into the heart of Glen Garry to enjoy the scenery and birdlife and, most impressively, Britain's largest land mammal and icon of Scotland, the red deer.

Landseer's 'Monarch of the Glen' is seen as a Victorian romantic view of the Highlands and it seemed fanciful to expect such dramatic views in the 21st century. But, after passing a few hinds on the hillside, Ian drove deeper into the glen and there they were - magnificent 12 and 16-point Royal stags in their natural environment.

Ian is also a successful landscape and wildlife photographer and, as well as wildlife trips, offers photography workshops.

The drive home to Fife was along the A86 to Dalwhinnie and down the A9. The first part of the drive is alongside Loch Laggan with the Monaliadh mountains on one side and the site of the fictional Glenbogle Estate from the TV series Monarch of the Glen on the other. Very appropriate.

The winter activities available were just a few of the attractions which allow Lochaber to lay claim to the title of Outdoor Capital of the UK.

The trip proved that you don't have to be experienced to enjoy them but, of course, there are opportunities for skiing , snowboard, walking and climbing at all levels.

And in the summer there are a host of other activities to add the list, including canyoning and sea kayaking as well as mountain biking.

Fort William and the surrounding area has worked hard to make itself attractive to mountain bikers again.

The Nevis Range hosts top-class racing including a World Cup event and the start gate for the downhill course on which the 2007 World Championships was held is right next to the top gondola station on Aonach Mor.

To experience Scotland's outdoors at its best, get on your bike or, with the season set to stretch into May, give skiing or snowboarding a bash.

THE tenth annual Fort William Mountain Festival take place from today until Tuesday and will feature a host of lectures, workshops and films for residents and visitors who want to learn about and celebrate mountain culture.

Mike Pescod, chairman of the Highland Mountain Culture Association, organisers of the Festival, says: "It includes a superb line-up of top climbers, mountain filmmakers, cutting edge outdoor athletes and adventurers.

"The programme of new events and old favourites caters for everyone of all ages from elite climbers, hill walkers and outdoor enthusiasts to sea and white water kayakers and budding cycling aerialists."

Children and adults will have the opportunity to try out new activities and learn new skills through daily mountain skills workshops.

Experienced guides from Abacus Mountaineering, in conjunction with Nevis Range, will lead courses on avalanche awareness, winter walking and winter climbing.

The festival will close with a ceilidh at the top of the Nevis Range mountain gondola, 650 metres up Aonach Mor beside Ben Nevis

For full details and to book tickets go to - http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk

Travel facts

• Ballachulish Hotel. (Pictured above, B&B from 45 per person per night with supplement for children and dogs) www.ballachulishhotel.com

• National Trust for Scotland Glencoe Visitor Centre: www.glencoe-nts.org.uk

Nevis Range: Family gondola ticket 29. Child's beginners ski lesson: 37 (includes lesson, equipment hire and beginners area pass). www.nevisrange.co.uk

• Clachaig Inn: www.clachaig.com

• Wildlife and photography safari with Ian Macleod: Prices from 25 for adults, under 16s 15 www.wildwestsafari.co.uk

• Trip organised by The Outdoor Capital of the UK: www.outdoorcapital.co.uk