Travel: Stirling Highland Hotel

I'd heard they called the hotel Hogwarts, and on arrival I could see why. The Barceló Stirling Highland Hotel, formerly the city's High School, isn't as huge as Harry Potter's wizard academy, but it has a magic all its own.

Not that it's small, with 96 rooms, 57 of which have just been refurbished, meaning they're a long way from dormitories of old. And with Scholars Restaurant, the Headmaster's Study bar and function rooms glorying in such names as the Latin Room, reminders of the past are ever present.

Built in 1854, the imposing redbrick exterior ensures the four-star hotel remains one of Stirling's landmarks, far from overshadowed by the even older castle mere yards away. There's Victorian charm aplenty, alongside all the state-of-the-art facilities you could wish for on a city break - beauty rooms, gym, spa pool and first-class service from the attentive, friendly staff.

And it was those staff who ensured our two-night break was a weekend to remember. From the moment we arrived in our prestige double room to the dreaded check-out time, we've rarely been so well looked after. And it wasn't just a case of superb service at Scholars, whose offering of traditional and international gourmet cuisine is an awful long way from anyone's idea of school dinners. Or the plush health club, with its wonderfully warm pool and jolly Jacuzzi.

Nope, we were treated to a tour of one of the Barcel Stirling Highland's unique features - its own observatory. The observatory tower was built as part of the High School extension undertaken in 1888-89, gifted to the school by Henry Campbell-Bannerman, MP for Stirling Burghs and future Liberal Prime Minister. Designed, built and installed by William Peck, City Astronomer of Edinburgh, in 1889, the telescope contained in the tower was donated by Laurence Pullar, scion of a Bridge of Allan industrial family. Pupils and locals were able to enjoy it until around 1906, when it fell into disuse. Happily, keen staff and students brought the telescope back into use in the 1970s and today it's owned by the city council.

The observatory itself is maintained and used by Stirling Astronomical Society, one of whose members, JE Duffy - aka Jed - showed my friend Steven and I around one dark night... OK, so it was summer and less than dark, meaning stargazing wasn't possible, but just being in that historic space is amazing. And Jed, whose enthusiasm could reignite a dead star, did open the rotating dome and give us a look at the Wallace Monument, just outside Stirling. It was a night we wouldn't forget.

The daytime proved special too, with a guided tour of Stirling Castle by senior steward Gary D'Arcy, an affable, knowledgeable charmer with a real gift for communication. Although parts date back to the 12th century, the centrepiece Royal Palace was built by James V and was the childhood residence of Mary, Queen of Scots. The castle has been home to numerous courts, hosted many grand parties and seen several sieges. For more than 150 years the castle was the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders' base, but today this symbol of independence is in the hands of Historic Scotland, whose spectacular 12 million Palace Project to restore the glory of the Renaissance concludes at Easter 2011.

Years of research have gone into recreating the furnishings and dcor of the royal apartments and when the palace reopens next year, visitors will be able to appreciate the grandeur once taken for granted by Scotland's royals.

But that's 2011 and there's plenty to see before that. Our visit included King James VI's Chapel Royal, raised in 1594 for the baptism of Prince Henry; the eerie recreation of a medieval kitchen, with lifelike mannequins and stuffed livestock; and the tapestry centre, where replicas of the fabled Hunt of the Unicorn series are being woven. We even met some fine citizens of Stirling, who looked terrific considering they'd been dead for hundreds of years ...

Outside the castle ramparts, the city has a nice mix of specialist shops and major stores, and plenty of places to eat, drink and be medieval. It was our first time staying in Stirling but with attractions such as the castle and accommodation on the level of the Hogwartsian Barcel, you can bet we'll be back for the new term.

THE FACTS Barcel Stirling Highland Hotel, Spittal Street, FK8 1DU, tel: [phone], 94 (118 including breakfast) per room per night, visit www.barcelo-hotels.co.uk/hotels/scotland/barcelo-stirling-highland-hotel/ for special offers. Observatory tours by prior arrangement.

Stirling Castle, adult 9, child 5.40, concessions 7.20, tel: [phone], www.stirlingcastle.gov.uk

The Stirling Astronomical Society meets regularly, www.stirlingastronomicalsociety.org.uk/

Visit www.holidays.scotsman.com for more UK holidays