Travel: Rockliffe Hall, County Durham

Sitting in the middle of a 375-acre estate on the banks of the Tees, Rockliffe was built by Alfred Backhouse, the man responsible for the Stockton to Darlington railway. Today it retains a surprising amount of its mock Gothic detail, which is complemented by a decor that reproduces the Victorian love of striking colours. A new wing has been designed to blend with the old, and internally this is achieved with an eye to detail in terms of interior design and lighting. Externally, age and weather will need to take their course.

A Quaker, Backhouse was also an ardent horticulturist and the first in the UK to import sequoias, some of the 30,000 trees planted on the estate. His beloved roses and sweet peas are also to be found in the Ila products used in the spa, where womb-like rooms provide the ultimate in cosseting.

Wining and dining?

Fresh from his success on BBC2's Great British Menu, local boy Kenny Atkinson is stamping his mark on the Orangery, where he heads a talented team including Laura Atkinson (no relation), on course to be one of the youngest female master sommeliers. Aiming for his third Michelin star in successive restaurants, Atkinson admits "three in a row would be fantastic" but isn't chasing awards at the expense of his diners. "I'd rather have people who are happy than to cook solely for a Michelin star. I want the customers to come back time and time again," he says. At 45 for three courses, try and stop them. We feasted on scallops and wood pigeon, halibut and sea bream, interspersed with sublime appetisers such as velout of parsnips and mushroom with truffle oil, and divine pear and chocolate puddings. Vegetarians are well catered for too.

Room service?

There are 61 spacious rooms, ten in the old hall that are unapologetically romantic and ideal for couples, while those in the new wing are larger than average, many with patios or balconies. All have comfortable super-sized beds and mood lighting systems, while stressed execs might like to ask for a room with chromatherapy – that's colour therapy, to those not in the know – the first in the UK.

Golfing parties can opt for one of the 24 self-catering houses, while the 33 contemporary rooms or apartments are ideal for a spa break.

Worth getting out of bed for?

You probably won't want or need to leave Rockliffe Hall, with its spa, gym and one of the longest (7,857 yard) golf courses in Europe, a 72 par designed by Marc Westenborg, but there's the Darlington railway museum, the Yorkshire Moors to walk off all that food and Middlesbrough and Newcastle for football and shopping.

Budget or boutique?

It's boutique and beyond. No expense has been spared in the refit and extension of the original country house, from a 2,500 mother-of-pearl wall in one suite to the stained glass rescued from a derelict chapel to make a stunning focal point for the pool.

Little extras?

A travelling-home pack of water, fruit and chocolate were thoughtful and the Ila Home Comforts toiletries in bedrooms hit their mark but it was the staff's human touch that made the difference.

Guestbook comments Forget about volcanic ash and airport lounges. Let the train take the strain – advanced returns booked online at East Coast (08457 225225, www.eastcoast.co.uk) between Edinburgh and Darlington start from 8 standard class. Teeside Airport is ten minutes away, but if you're a real WAG, land your helicopter in the grounds. It's 270 B&B for double occupancy (255 single) in a new hall contemporary double, 430 (415) B&B in an Old Hall double room per night. Rockliffe Hall, Hurworth-on-Tees, Darlington, County Durham (01325 729999, www.rockliffehall.com)

This article was first published in Scotland on Sunday on 23 May.