Travel: Moscow

STANDING in the shadow of the Kremlin, it is not hard to imagine when this was the power base of the Soviet world. From within its walls, Stalin masterminded some of his most dreadful deeds, and yet today it is one of the most beautiful and peaceful parts of the city.

Instead of military parades in Red Square, the queues of people you'll see in Moscow today are of those lining up to buy the latest fashions at the city's top designer stores or waiting to see Lenin's Tomb. There is much to see, from the golden domes of the city's magnificent cathedrals and palaces to its endless parkland. There remains, however, a complete lack of service culture and a deep-rooted infatuation with queueing, which can result in lengthy check-ins at the airport.

Yet, it is these exquisite contradictions that are an integral part of this magnificent city's undoubted charm.

Before you go It is wise to educate yourself about local customs. For instance it is considered offensive to put your bag on the floor when entering a restaurant, as locals believe it brings with it the dirt of the outside. It is frowned upon to remove your shoes indoors. See www.moscow.info for further information.

Planes, trains and automobiles Fly direct from Edinburgh to Domodedovo with British Midlands Airways from around 138 return, including taxes. See www.edreams.com for more flight information.

Getting around Moscow's underground stations are attractions in themselves, boasting architectural masterpieces throughout the city. Mayakovskaya, for instance, is decorated with 34 mosaics by artist Alexander Deymeke.

Tourist trail Moscow's Red Square is famous worldwide for its stunning architecture, so a trip to the city would be wasted without having your photograph taken in front of St Basil's cathedral. When in the area, the tomb of Lenin is worth a morbid yet fascinating visit, whilst the Kremlin is an obvious choice for politicos, historians and tourists alike. For animal rights activists, the Moscow State Circus is not recommended, but for those who enjoy spectacular gymnastics and impressive pyrotechnics, it makes an interesting night out.

Theatrically-minded visitors should not miss the talents at the Bolshoi. Home of the Moscow Arts Theatre (MXAT to students and locals), there are numerous productions to be found within the city.

Nightlife For a good-looking and friendly crowd, a staple of the Moscow night scene is bar turned club Propaganda. Its clientele is a mix of tourists and students, and the vibrant and eclectic atmosphere guarantees an energy-filled night out. For those looking for a slightly more alternative night, head to B2 for live acts and cult music. It would, of course, be both entirely stereotypical and appropriate to sample one of Russia's many vodka bars whilst in the city, of which the Hungry Duck is top of the list. Check out www.moscow-life.com.

Where to stay For a luxurious stay, head to the five-star Hotel Baltschug Kempinksi. Directly facing the Kremlin, it is the ultimate central location for optimum sightseeing and prices start at 330 per night. For a visit on a budget, try the Maxima Zayra Hotel, with prices starting at 30 per night.

When to go For those of us who frequently moan about the British weather, beware. The climate in Moscow is an exaggerated version of that which we love to hate. In January, average temperatures reach as low as –16C, while, in July, the mercury rises to a maximum of about 23C, making it pleasant to visit in the summer without experiencing stifling humidity.

Where to eat Whatever the palate and price range, Moscow has a variety of restaurants fit for a Tsar. The Pushkin Cafe is considered by many to be the best restaurant in Moscow, designed to reflect the early 20th century, from the dcor to the staff uniforms. An average charge is 30 per main course.

On a slightly more affordable level, try the self-service restaurant Caf Mu-Mu, which comes highly recommended with a price tag of 6 per main course.

What to buy It would be virtually impossible to visit Moscow without coming across the staple tourist memorabilia. It is practically a badge of honour to collect the token matryoshka dolls, Russian hat and Russian flag, all of which can be purchased in Red Square. Once this list of tourist essentials has been successfully ticked off, visiting GUM, a huge shopping centre on the site of the former Glavnyi Universalnyi Magazin department store is a must.

• This article was first published in Scotland on Sunday, March 14, 2010