Travel: Mar Hall, Bishopton

Set 20 minutes from the banks of Loch Lomond, the hotel has played host to many celebrities thanks to its proximity to the SECC and Glasgow airport, but there's much more to its reputation than just a handy location.

Old-fashioned and discreet service, tranquil grounds and a very deliberate respect for guests' privacy are the order of the day, and as a result give us mere mortals a helping hand in feeling the comfort and joy of star treatment.

Wining and dining? Emerging from the other side of the hotel's reception is the Grand Hall, home to a grand piano and roaring fire, and off of which run the hotel's fine dining experience in the form of the Cristal Restaurant and the Taittinger Bar.

Get the picture? Yes, everything is in place for a high-end experience, be that the waiter service for high tea, an after-dinner liqueur in the Grand Hall or dinner courtesy of The Old Course-trained executive chef Leon Quate.

The food was exemplary, and the hosting of guests as they float around the various social spaces was wonderfully personal – right down to the pianist taking special requests for Doves after the stroke of midnight, and the waiters smiling politely at the guest who felt so at home she had kicked her shoes off and started dancing.

Room service? We were lucky enough to be put in a junior suite, which meant we had a cavernous bathroom with twin sinks, a bath with a view out over the gardens and enough room to roll out of the bath ten times over and still not have reached the door. The bedroom was resplendent in dark woods, plush purples and creams, again with dawn views over the immaculate surroundings.

Oh, and then there was the living room, with flat-screen TV, writing desk, sofa and mini bar. Perfect for when the entourage comes a-knocking.

Worth getting out of bed for? The Earl of Mar golf course was designed by golf architect Dave Thomas, best known for his work at The Belfry, and during our stay there was a constant stream of both locals and guests occupying the course.

The aforementioned grounds themselves are worth exploring in their own right, either for a breathtaking early morning jog, or a more vigorous hike. The rolling greens at the front look out over the River Clyde heading up to Loch Lomond, and across the water to the Kilpatrick Hills.

The hotel also arranges activities for guests including archery, falconry or clay pigeon shooting, meaning you're truly never looking to leave the estate during a weekend stay.

Budget or boutique? This is five-star Scottish hotel luxury with all the benefits and discretion you would expect, yet the scale is actually very small and intimate, so guests feel they have been handed the run of a ridiculously rich uncle's manor for the weekend.

A double room costs from 165 per night in July, including full Scottish breakfast and full use of leisure facilities, with golf and spa packages regularly available. For more details see www.marhall.com.

Little extras? Mar Hall boasts an Aveda concept spa, the only one of its kind in the UK, but there is really very little to boast about on the basis of our experience.

We had been booked in at the same time as a hen party, which is par for the course at spas at weekends, but as a result the 'concept spa' turned into a towelling robed scene from a Friday night on Sauchiehall Street, with soundtrack to match.

The staff were nowhere to be found, the diary was clearly overbooked, and as a result guests turning up for five-star spa pampering were made to sit outside in a draughty corridor, hoping a Clyde gust didn't blow their modesty. When we did head in for a treatment there was very little in the manner of customer care.

Disappointing to say the least. An escape to the swimming pool didn't offer much more comfort, with a few token loungers placed around a rather dull pool, the facilities were more in keeping with an airport inn than the quality of the rest of the hotel experience.

Guestbook comments?

Gordon Ramsay, honorary patron of the Scottish Spina Bifida Association, will be hosting a summer ball on Thursday at Mar Hall. For ticket information call 01236 794505 or e-mail [email protected].

This article was first published in Scotland On Sunday, 10 July, 2011