Travel: Lochaber and Fort William

THE natural beauty of the Scottish Highlands is no secret. Spectacular mountains, mirror-calm lochs and white sandy beaches attract thousands of people every year. It can be frustrating, however, when your photographs don't do a beautiful vista justice.

Imagine having a professional photographer on hand to help. Enter Ian Macleod who runs Nevispix, a company offering photography lessons and courses in the picturesque Lochaber area.

Having lived there for more than 20 years he knows plenty about its wildlife, history and photogenic places off the beaten track.

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It's mid-January and the recent snow is beginning to thaw in the rain so it's a relief to start the day at Macleod's studio in South Laggan for a tutorial.

We learn the rules of composition and how to avoid common mistakes, and check out some of his photographs. I confess to using only the auto option on my Canon digital camera but it's not long before I'm out of my comfort zone and thinking about shutter speeds, apertures and other previously alien features.

Inspired, we head out and are rewarded with pretty, frozen lochs, snowy mountains and bursting waterfalls. Click. The snow-white scenery creates a monochrome scene.

As we drive along an icy single track on the north bank of Loch Garry and Loch Quoich we finally see what we're looking for - wild red deer. There are roughly 300,000 in Scotland and in winter they graze at lower levels, making sightings easier.

The hinds are skittish so we need to be quick to photograph them, but the majestic stags are more serene subjects. Click. Later, Macleod casts a professional eye over my photographs. They're a mixed bag but I'm pleased and, even better, I won't be running on auto feature any more.

It's the perfect start to a trip that's all about learning new skills while enjoying the beautiful surrounds of Fort William and Lochaber. Community company Outdoor Capital of the UK has put together a packed itinerary, including the day with Nevispix, for my boyfriend David and I.

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We're staying at Riverside Lodges, Invergloy, owned by Steve and Marilyn Dennis. The three four-star, self-catering lodges are spacious, thanks to their unusual design over two floors. Each has a large, decked veranda that overlooks 12 acres of mature garden and woodland, and a private beach on the shore of Loch Lochy.

Our lodge feels homely and has everything we need. The homemade flapjacks and bread are lovely welcome touches.

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For more tasty local produce, a trip to the Lochaber Farm Shop is a must and, mindful of the next day's mountain biking, we tuck into a John MacMillan Butchers' steak pie, Great Glen Game venison chorizo and Letterfindlay traditional oak-smoked Scottish salmon.

Our mountain biking is with IFMGA guide Mike Pescod of Abacus Mountaineering. He brings new meaning to the term "outdoor enthusiast"; scrambling, rock climbing, canyoning, ice climbing and ski-ing are just some of the activities he offers.

We head for an empty car park five miles north of Fort William and, beneath a snowy Ben Nevis, we go through some core skills on the bikes - using the gears and brakes effectively and control by weight-shift. I haven't cycled in about 20 years so I'm slightly nervous. It's not that I can't remember - it's like riding a bike, you know - but let's just say I'm a bit rusty.

The trail grading for cycle routes is the same as ski-ing - green is easy, blue is moderate, red is difficult and black severe. We start with an easy circuit then, after lunch, hit the 7km Broomstick Blue, one of The Witch's Trails, a network of man-made trails in Leanachan Forest.

We must keep our bodies relaxed and always look to the path ahead (very Zen), advises Mike, as we ride through native and coniferous woodland, along bumpy paths, wooden walkways and berms. The latter are man-made banks for cyclists to take a corner at an exaggerated angle and therefore at higher speeds.

I never really reach the high speeds. Well, not intentionally, but Pescod and David have fun whizzing along the track while never straying too far ahead of me.

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As the day progresses, a combination of lack of fitness and comedy falls means I spend more time off the bike than on it, but it gives me an opportunity to appreciate the breathtaking views (why didn't I bring my camera?). By the time we finish the route at the Nevis Range car park, I'm slightly soggy and my legs and derriere are aching.

Thankfully, my weary muscles have recovered from the previous day's mountain biking when we meet up with Ian Brown of Highland Activities. Based at Ardverikie, a 50,000-acre sporting estate, a plethora of land and water activities are on offer.

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The drive through the estate reveals magnificent scenery; we pass Ardverikie Wall, the 190-metre crag popular with climbers training for Mount Everest, and some Munros for those not ready for the world's highest mountain. A golden eagle soars overhead.

We also pass Ardverikie House, a Scottish Baronial-style building constructed in 1870, which fans of the BBC series Monarch of the Glen will recognise as the setting for Glenbogle.

First up is 4x4 driving. I'm driving a Landrover Defender and with Brown's expert guidance I'm soon careering up and down impossibly steep slopes, through a river, along icy roads and negotiating side slopes. It's exhilarating. His professional ism is impressive too - sitting next to a complete novice, he hasn't broken into a sweat (or sworn).

Target sports are next. An archery bow is chosen. I take aim at the target and try to channel my inner Robin Hood but the arrows have minds of their own.

I fare better at the clay pigeon shooting which is a real test of reaction rate and hand-eye coordination but the instructions are straightforward. The shotgun is loaded. Most of the clay targets fly off into the distance unchallenged, then I hit four in a row. Result. I think I've discovered a new talent.

Outdoor Capital of the UK (www.outdoorcapital.co.uk).

Riverside Lodges (01397 712 684, www.riversidelodge.org.uk), 380-760 per week, including small party discounts.

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ScotRail (08457 55 00 33, www.scotrail.co.uk), standard open return Edinburgh-Spean Bridge costs 44.60.

Nevispix (01809 501 355, www.nevispix.com), photography courses from 75 per person, red deer safaris from 25 per person.

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Abacus Mountaineering (01397 772 466, www.abacusmountaineering.com), 210 for two people for one day's mountain biking.

Highland Activities (0845 094 5513, www.highlandactivities.co.uk), two hours 4x4 driving experience for two people, 75 per person; clay pigeon shooting, 35 per person; archery, 1 hour, 25 per person.

This article was first published in Scotland On Sunday, 6 March, 2011

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