Travel: Leeds bids to be the new Las Vegas

Blue-shirted dealers are a flurry of arms and commands as they move chips expertly around the board, from the House to the players and - more often than not - back again. As the rest of the city sleeps, this building is a hub of excitement that will linger long after the sun's first rays have hit the windows.

But this city isn't, as the description might suggest, Las Vegas. It's Leeds, and though "Viva Las Leeds" may not have the same ring to it, the west Yorkshire city is now staking its claim as something of a gambling Mecca.

Opened in 2008, the 15 million Alea Casino on the city's Clarence Dock prides itself on offering the same level of glamour and opulence as its cousins in the Nevada desert.

So many UK casinos I have visited seem to be just about the gambling, while the fringe elements, such as relaxing and dining, are given little consideration. Not so here, where the casino is keen to make guests feel welcome and relaxed.

For example, before I could even think about hitting the tables, it was time for a sumptuous and innovative three-course Indian meal courtesy of Indian chef Vineet Bhatia, the holder of two Michelin stars.

Afterwards, I moved next door to The Bird Lounge for a cocktail-making class with one of the resident mixologists. I was invited to choose my favourite concoction from the menu - in the end my greed took over and I chose two - and get behind the bar to fuse the ingredients under the watchful eye of an expert while my colleagues "marvelled" at my shaking skills. Everyone who now comes to visit me is immediately poured a Singapore Sling - even at 10am.

Suitably fed and watered, I was ready to make my million; well, on this trip, a clear profit of 8.50 was good enough for me.

With roulette tables starting at just 50p a chip and Blackjack at 3 minimum a hand, there's scope for newbies to get to grips with the games without feeling they're going to leave the premises sans chemise.

And it's reassuring to know the dealers - while there to make money for the casino - by law, must have your interests in mind, and are on hand to offer advice.

Despite being able to gamble for 16 hours of the day (about two hours was my limit), even the most diehard player visiting the city for the first time will want to explore. Assuring you have a comfortable stay in Leeds is something Alea has taken care of too, by linking with boutique hotel group The Eton Collection.

First up is 42 The Calls, which is set in a former 18th-century corn mill overlooking the canal, just minutes from the train station.

I was struck by the way in which the hotel marries elegance and quirkiness to perfection: oak beams and exposed industrial girders reveal the building's history, but all that is entwined with minimalist chrome, leather and stylish interiors. Try to resist the temptation to swing on some of the original mill mechanisms - the urge proved too much for me.

Along with the classic full English breakfast, guests can select from 12 varieties of sausage. To my shame, I did hint that all 12 would be a challenge I'd gladly undertake, but the waitress was having none of it and two was what I got. Pork and chive, venison, chicken and tarragon, and merguez are just four of the 12 on offer and, as I write, I can feel my mouth watering all over again.

A short distance away is the second jewel in The Eton Collection's crown, in Quebecs, also conveniently close to the station. The first thing that hit me (and all other guests, no doubt) about the Grade II listed Victorian building were the five huge stained glass windows that display the coats of arms of the principal towns of Yorkshire. This is a grand entrance on a monumental scale.

The rooms are as stunning as their counterparts at The Calls, but the style is quite a contrast. Quebecs has what can best be described as a Georgian flavour, dressed in soft tones. Beautiful, tall windows are the main feature in the rooms, all hung with long, flowing curtains and gloriously shaped pelmets.

An undoubted highlight is the classic Oak Room, complete with, as one would expect given the name, ornate and beautifully carved oak panels. Come mid-afternoon, this historic lounge is transformed into a charming "honesty" bar. A selection of spirits and soft beverages are laid out and guests can help themselves, before filling in the details on a piece of paper which is added to the bill. It harks back to a simpler time - and, dare it be said, a more trusting time - and adds to the hotel's relaxed air.

Breakfast at Quebecs is to the same high standard as that at The Calls. You can't go wrong with the scrambled eggs and mixed smoked salmon, which helped soak up the cocktails from the night before.

But while 42 The Calls and Quebecs can fill that gap in the morning hours, I was eager to seek out other locations for lunch and dinner. For the former, I stumbled upon Piazza by Anthony's, located in Leeds Corn Exchange.

The Corn Exchange is one of Britain's finest Victorian buildings, a Grade I listed structure and, following a comprehensive 1.5 million restoration in 2008, now a major focal point for visitors to the city.

In the belly of the building, below a plethora of shops, is the centrepiece of Piazza by Anthony's which, along with the restaurant, also comes with a cafe, a champagne bar and, most tempting of all, the bakery, patisserie and chocolaterie. It is impossible to walk past the bakery and not stop for a treat.

New to Leeds, and a must for steak-lovers such as myself, is Gaucho. Situated in the hub of the city's legal and banking district, this sumptuous restaurant, which is already an established name in London, exudes contemporary glamour fused with authentic Argentine culture.

This hidden gem, the latest addition to the Gaucho stable, is a luxuriously decadent hideaway in which to indulge in delicious food, fine wine and a brand new cocktail menu.

But what if you have difficulty choosing which steak to get your teeth into? Well, allow your waiter to bring out a wooden block featuring a sample of every cut from the finest Argentine Aberdeen Angus beef on offer, along with an expert description of each. But beware, requests for steaks well done will be met with a roll of the eyes.

I plumped for the fillet, and even my cooking preference of medium-rare caused brows to furrow; at Gaucho the belief is that only rare can bring out the best in the meat.

Back at the casino, and things are starting to quieten as the sun rises. The last group of gamblers is still hard at it, seemingly oblivious to the dawn. I have moved away from the tables to procure a valedictory cocktail and reflect on the night and a quick return to Leeds to make that million at last.

This article was first published in Scotland On Sunday, 31 October, 2010