Travel: Hong Kong

I N a city so modern that it gleams in the morning sunshine, or in its own neon night-time reflection, the Peninsula is a rare piece of living history.

Having recently celebrated its 82nd birthday, the chain's landmark hotel has been a constant in the ever-changing Hong Kong skyline and is a building that would not look out of place in Edinburgh's Old Town.

For the weary traveller touching down after a long flight, a rare treat awaits in the shape of one of the hotel's exclusive fleet of royal green Rolls-Royces for the short journey to Kowloon. From the minute the car pulls up at the hotel, it is impossible to escape the sense of luxury and privilege.

The foyer is flanked by boutique shops selling jewellery, bags and clothing, the lobby is sleek and stylish, there is an endless choice for eating and drinking, and the location is perfect – a short walk from the ferry terminal.

Because of this location, many of the rooms have a wonderful view of the harbour, which is particularly special when all lit up at night.

Wining and dining? It's not as if Hong Kong does not provide enough options when it comes to eating out, but if you are feeling lazy, there are plenty more in the hotel.

For something authentic the Spring Moon offers a taste of traditional Cantonese cooking, Gaddi's serves French cuisine in classically elegant surroundings, Felix is modern and minimalistic with a contemporary menu, Chesa serves Swiss food in a cosy chalet-like environment and there's even Japanese food in Imasa. The only problem you may have is finding enough time to sample all the options on offer.

Budget or boutique? Are you kidding? This is boutique all the way. From its Rolls-Royce collection service to the fabulous range of spa treatments, various restaurants and luxury shops, this is all about pampering and spoiling yourself.

The motto for a Peninsula guest should be: "If I'm going to go upmarket, I'm going all the way to the top."

Room service? My room was a corner suite overlooking the harbour, with a sitting room, large double bedroom and bathroom complete with a corner jacuzzi.

I even had a telescope to make the most of the fantastic views of the harbour and Hong Kong island. You can't go somewhere as fascinating and hip as Hong Kong and stay in your room, but it almost felt like a shame to leave every time I stepped out the door.

Worth getting out of bed for? Hong Kong is a shopaholic's dream and, as well as the designer stores, there are lovely little streets selling beautiful Chinese antiques and artefacts.

That said, there's the danger of suffering claustrophobia in Hong Kong as the glass buildings spike up around you and everyone races around at 100 miles per hour. The hotel treated us to a fascinating cruise of the harbour and it is well worth taking a trip to the parks and fishing communities on the outskirts for a sense of perspective, to see what was here before this remarkable city sprang up.

Little extras? There's really nothing little about them, with a masseur on hand to pummel the stresses and strains out of your body. The spa has to be seen to be believed and offers top-of-the-range treatments in a stunning setting. Perhaps best of all is that it is situated at the top of the hotel, where you can relax looking out over the city from a reclining seat following treatments.

Guestbook comments? Staying at the Peninsula was a real treat. Other hotels of this calibre can almost force service on to guests in desperation to impress but this two-year-old landmark hotel has an effortless charm and grace. Rooms start at 330 a night.

www.peninsula.com/Hong_Kong/en/Destination

This article was first published in Scotland On Sunday, 6 March, 2011