Travel: Florida, USA

THE American authorities have not - yet - passed a law that requires all tourists in Florida to visit Disney World. But such a glaring omission from the US statute books surely cannot last forever.

So this summer I seized the opportunity to travel hundreds of miles from the Magic Kingdom to witness some oft-forgotten delights of the Sunshine State.

There is an array of flights available to Florida, and the tourist Mecca of Orlando is by far the most sensible point of arrival and departure.

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Even though the untimely collapse of Scotland's budget airline, FlyGlobespan, will be mourned by many holidaymakers north of the Border, cheap alternatives are still on offer.

I flew with US Airways from Glasgow - a journey that is interrupted by a stop in Philadelphia, but avoids the London behemoths.

On arrival, I picked up the keys to my Toyota and set off on a road trip I hoped would take in the 'real' Florida.

The first rule of a road trip is to avoid the Interstates whenever possible. Instead, take the two-lane highways that weave their way through timeless towns and villages long forgotten by corporate America.

Florida may lack the scenery of the Blue Ridge Parkway, or the natural wonders of Wyoming - road trips I would highly recommend - but the state has a unique charm that cannot be matched.

I began by travelling east, heading directly for the Atlantic Ocean and the undeveloped landscape from where Neil Armstrong and Apollo 11 embarked on a journey to the Moon a generation ago.

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The Kennedy Space Center offers guided tours, with a fascinating look back at the space race that shaped America.

From Cape Canaveral the US-A1 races south, with the great ocean lapping at the Tarmac on both sides. Parked cars line the edge of the road for miles, left there by bronzed surf dudes who make the most of the choppy waters.

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Nearby is Cocoa Beach, put on the map by fictional astronaut Tony Nelson in the 1960s sitcom I Dream of Jeannie. The town was also home to Gordo, the celebrated monkey blasted into space by Nasa. He sadly never returned home.

I spent the night at the Ron Jon Resort in nearby Cape Caribe, where the two-for-one beers from the poolside bar were a perfect end to the day. Next morning, I continued on the A1, driving past the large beachfront properties towards Jupiter.

Along the way, I encountered my first Florida thunderstorm. It was a truly spectacular sight, with the sky lit up by jagged lightning and the road almost shaking from the strength of the thunder's boom. The rain was so heavy that visibility was next-to-zero, yet it remained scorching hot.

The storm passed as suddenly as it came, and - now in Jupiter - I found myself outside a museum dedicated to Burt Reynolds. The town has a strange fascination with the film star, just one of many celebrities to have splashed their cash on luxurious homes in the area. Others include Michael Jordan, Celine Dion and Ernie Els.

I took the time to swim in the Atlantic Ocean while here, before heading towards Fort Lauderdale the following morning. The city is famed as a 'spring break' destination, where thousands of inebriated American students come to lose their inhibitions. It is also the place where one of my favourite childhood movies - Flight of the Navigator - was set.

To see the city, nicknamed the Venice of America, I highly recommend the Fort Lauderdale VIP pass.

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It allows entry into local museums, as well as the fabulous water taxi that floats past mansions and luxury yachts. Then, come sunset, "Fort Liquordale" has enough bars to cater for every musical taste - from jazz to hardcore dance.

The A1 continues south from the city, through Miami and to the tail of the state. But I decided to veer west, towards the Everglades.

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The slow-moving US-41 travels through the heart of this fascinating eco-system, where road signs warn of "Panthers ahead" and alligators roam freely. I had to swerve to avoid killing a turtle the size of a dustbin lid, and stopped to take a photograph of a 7ft alligator that had become roadkill. I didn't get too close - just in case.

It would be wrong to visit this wonderful region without riding on an airboat through the glades. Dozens of companies cater for the thousands of tourist who visit every year, but Wooten's famous tours near Ochopee are among the best.

My weathered guide, who started off by branding Bear Grylls a "wimp", took me out across the waters, showing off as he performed high-speed turns and pointing out the many alligators that lurked in the swamp.

To the west of the Everglades is Naples, a golfer's paradise, so if you don't like golf, it's probably best to steer clear of this city.

I decided not to stay long as I wanted to travel north once more. The gulf coast is never more than a few miles away as the US-45 heads through urban sprawl towards Port Charlotte. This is not the most beautiful part of Florida, but my destination in Rotonda was worth the trip.

Here, away from the tourist trap of Orlando, luxury villas are available to rent at knock-down prices. I stayed in a fabulous house that overlooked a small lake. From my private pool I could watch the racoons scurrying through the gardens, while a young alligator nicknamed Moses sunbathed on the banks of the lake.

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But my time in America was coming to an end and I was soon heading on the US-17 back to Orlando, from where I would be flying back to Scotland.

First, I had a few days to spend in the city itself. My base was a beautiful villa not far from Kissimmee. Dubbed 'Palatial Heaven' by the owners, the first-class facilities included a private swimming pool and a games room. Close enough to the I4 Interstate, all the major tourist attractions in Orlando are just a short drive away.

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The city is not, by any means, one of America's more beautiful destinations. Parts of Orlando resemble a tacky version of Blackpool but it is unrivalled for its fun factor, with Sea World and Universal Studios two of the more popular attractions. The entry fees are astronomical, but the new Harry Potter ride at Universal has to be seen to be believed.

It was now my final day in Florida. Perhaps it was the advertising boards on the side of every road. Or perhaps the Orlando sun had got to me. But, barely two weeks since I had vowed to steer clear of Disney World, I now found myself posing for a photograph with an oversized Mickey Mouse. Yes, I had relented and joined the throng of tourists heading to the Magic Kingdom.

Over the course of my road trip, I discovered Florida has much more to offer than Disney. But I came to the conclusion that it would be churlish not to visit such a cultural phenomenon. And, if I'm honest, it was great fun too.

US Airways provides a seasonal service between Glasgow and Philadelphia, with connections to Orlando, currently from 650 (www.usairways.com).

David Jones stayed at Walt Disney World Swan and Dolphin hotel (www.swandolphin.com) in Orlando, Ron Jon Resort, Cape Caribe (www.ronjonresort.com) and the Palatial Heaven villa in Orlando (www.florida-holiday.info)

This article was first published in Scotland On Sunday, 06 February, 2011