Travel: Feversham Arms Hotel, Yorkshire

Swimming outdoors in Yorkshire on an overcast Sunday morning might not sound the most appealing prospect, but if you're doing a few lengths in the heated pool at the Feversham Arms Hotel, it's a different matter. The pool, warmed to 26C and set in a subtly lit courtyard, is just one of the many pleasant surprises that guests at this "country-chic" hotel in the quaint town of Helmsley will encounter.

Simon Rhatigan, who has owned the hotel with his wife, Jill, since 2003, has transformed it from a pub with 17 rooms into a sophisticated hideaway with 33 rooms and suites. On the edge of the North York Moors National Park, it's about a four-hour drive from Edinburgh – but the trip is worth it for a weekend of pampering.

On approach, it still looks like a large pub, but don't be deceived by appearances. After checking in, we were taken to our room – one of the spa suites in the most modern part of the hotel. A spacious reception room with comfy sofa and large TV opened on to a balcony overlooking the pool – the perfect vantage point from which to sip the champagne we ordered from room service. Through sliding doors was the spacious double bedroom. Much to my husband David's delight there was another TV, complete with DVD and CD player.

But what caught my attention was the rather cute Highland cow lying in the middle of the double bed with a "do not disturb" tag round his neck. Rather than attaching a flimsy bit of card to your door if you want privacy, the cuddly toy can be placed outside to warn off over-zealous staff.

Many modern hotels don't have baths, but Feversham suites have deep baths and standalone showers. While David lay on the sofa and caught up on the football results, I had a long, hot bath, making the most of the L'Occitane toiletries.

We then decided to drag ourselves away to walk the few minutes to the centre of Helmsley for a pre-dinner drink. There are plenty of pubs and we chose the Pickwick Arms, which was packed.

Back at the Feversham, the restaurant and the food lived up to the rest of the hotel. That's not surprising as Simon Rhatigan has spent time as company general manager for Blanc Restaurants, which owns the Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons, and was managing director for Tom's Companies, which includes the Michelin-starred Samling in its group.

The focus is on local produce and you can choose from a tasting menu, go la carte or make it easy for yourself by opting for the 33 set-price menu.

We both decided on la carte and weren't disappointed. David started with red mullet and this led to the only grumble of the meal as he found it over-salted. My artichoke soup went down a treat. My main course of sirloin of Yorkshire beef with celeriac, braised shin, bone marrow and Madeira jus was hearty without being overwhelming and David devoured his loin of Scottish venison with potatoes boulangre and savoy cabbage. Despite being stuffed, we couldn't resist desserts of tiramisu and clotted cream parfait with warm ginger bread and plum tarte tatin.

We crawled upstairs to collapse into our soft double bed, but not before ordering full cooked breakfasts to be delivered to our room – and putting the cow out!

We woke in time for a swim thanks to the bells from the nearby church. It was one of the most pleasant Sunday morning experiences I've had, and we arrived back to our room just in time for our piping hot breakfasts.

But the highlight of the weekend was yet to come. The Verbena Spa was opened in October 2008 following a 1.3 million investment and it really gives the hotel that something extra. I was served green tea as I waited for my therapist to take me to a spa room for my treatment. I had chosen the grand-sounding Royal Miracle Ice Facial, which turned out to be the best facial I've ever had. For over an hour I relaxed as "express radiance ice cubes" were applied to my face and neck to "revive, lift and firm" my skin. I was then polished and cleansed with Anne Semonin's products, before having an oil and cream mask massaged through my hair to improve its condition. My skin felt smooth and, even if I say so myself, I was glowing for the rest of the day.

While it's tempting to stay in the hotel and relax in the library with afternoon tea, it's worth taking time to explore the surrounding area. The town has its fair share of attractions, from coffee shops to independent bookshops and an arts centre.

After a walk it was time to say farewell to the Feversham and Helmsley – but we're already planning our next trip. Next time we might opt for one of the older, equally lovely suites, many with wood-burning stoves. The danger is we might never leave.

THE FACTS

The Feversham Arms Hotel and Verbena Spa in Helmsley is about half an hour by car/taxi from York, the nearest station on the east coast mainline, www.eastcoast.co.uk It has 33 bedrooms, of which 22 are suites. Double rooms (B&B) from 150 per room or 210 (dinner, B&B). Spa suites are around 385 (B&B) and 445 (dinner, B&B), www.fevershamarms-hotel.com, tel: [phone].

Visit www.holidays.scotsman.com for more UK holidays

• This article was first published in The Scotsman, Saturday March 13, 2010