Travel: Chelsea Harbour, London

I woke up (it was a Chelsea morning) to find Robbie Williams and Michael Caine partially obscuring my view. However, that still left much of the London landscape, including St Paul's Cathedral, the London Eye and a watery highway visible from my hotel on the modern development of Chelsea Harbour.

Guests at the Wyndham Grand drink in the near uninterrupted view east along the Thames. Some 200ft to the west is the towering residence, even closer to the river, that is occupied, we were assured, by Mr Caine and Mr Williams.

The latter, it was said, was seen on the morning we arrived, as he ran to a tour bus which could not drive as far as the front entrance to his block. Paparazzi don't normally have access to Chelsea Harbour, either, as it is mainly private land. So, if you are being followed by photographers, this is the place for you. The Wyndham Grand tends to attract people who neither need nor welcome publicity.

But the reason for staying here would not be to indulge in a bit of star-spotting, it is for the modern comfort. First, you have to get there. From Edinburgh you can fly, of course, but what a hassle that can be with security, queues, crammed aircraft, and arriving far out from the city centre. For real relaxation, take the train.

Once you arrive, the hotel is well worth the journey. There's a 17 metre pool and steam room, or you can get a massage in the newly opened hotel spa. Later, in your room, step into a roomy bath, an even roomier towelling robe, then onto the balcony to properly appreciate the stunning views.

The rooms could be less fabulous and guests would still flock. But, then, what's not to like about power showers your very own espresso coffee machine and sitting room?

Making all rooms into suites is believed to be one reason the hotel is popular with visiting and resident teams who play at nearby Chelsea and Fulham. This may surprise you, but footballers are a competitive lot. In most hotels there's a fight for the limited number of suites. Team managers don't need this agro.

Judging by the newspapers in reception the clientele is from the US, the Middle East, and Germany, as well as nearer to home. The outsize print of John Lennon is arguably the shared cultural heritage for all guests.

Dine early, as even if you pass on the platter of mini pudding portions, breakfast time comes all too soon. You need to leave room for this meal. The jams are homemade and the marmalade is to die for.

The service from all staff is fastidiously helpful even if, when we were there, it seemed like several were in the early stages of training. Even though there were minor problems with our orders here and there, they were fixed quickly and with charm.

Now, you could stay in your suite all day, but that would be a bit of a waste. We ventured out to sample Chelsea and beyond. Within a three-minute walk lies a wide range of antiques shops, furniture shops and the Design Centre which is all about interiors.

Chutney Mary, one of the earliest Indian restaurants to give red flock wallpaper the heave-ho, is also within easy range, as is a variety of restaurants on the King's Road. Believe brewers when they say they are going out of business. We walked for almost 15 minutes before finding a pub on the King's Road.

It's good luck, then, that a very decent hostelry, Lots Road Pub, is a stone's throw away from the hotel.

The Wyndham is near the newish "overground" train station that is Imperial Wharf, just one stop from the District tube line stop. There is a case for taking the bus whenever possible.

Hop on a red double-decker from the hotel to travel up the King's Road if you want to explore the very heart of London. Be warned, if you are of my gender: from the appropriately named World's End end of the road to Sloane Square at the other end, there is more than one clothes shop. There is a chance you may be prevailed upon to abandon the bus. You could even head down to Westminster for a breezy ride on a boat to Greenwich.

The Wyndham Grand is luxurious and, it must be said, not cheap. But it is a modern hotel and if you want a suite to yourself, views to die for and the chance to wake up on one of those Chelsea mornings, this is the place for you.

THE FACTS Wyndham Grand, Chelsea Harbour, London (0207 823 3000, www.wyndhamgrandlondon.co.uk)

Weekend rates for one night start from 146.30 for the Chelsea Suite. Returns between Edinburgh and London Kings Cross, start from 26 Standard Class (08457 225225, www.eastcoast.co.uk).

Visit www.holidays.scotsman.com for more UK holidays

• This article was first published in The Scotsman on November 6, 2010