Travel: Boston, USA

BOSTON is one of those few American cities which may be explored comfortably on foot and it is even more walker-friendly since tunnelling known as the "Big Dig", claimed to be the largest and most complex road project ever conducted in the United States, allowed the removal of its overhead central artery of roads, consigning to the past what once seemed like a nightmare straight from Fritz Lang's futuristic film Metropolis.

BEST FOR GRAZING

At Quincy Market, the lunchtime herd shuffles from stall to stall, trying to make its difficult decision: steamed lobster or scallops, pizza or Italian sausage, sushi or tandoori chicken? All human sustenance is there.

Plump for Boston's staple - a "bowl" of thick, creamy clam chowder, served in a paper cup with crackers - although there are so many more things you would like to taste that it seems a shame to choose.

There has been a market in these buildings for almost two centuries but it has existed in its present form since the 1970s. Back then it was a novelty. But even though it has since been copied around the world, it can hardly have been bettered.

BEST TEA PARTY EXPERIENCE

A good way to get to grips with Boston's history and geography is to follow the Freedom Trail. Freedom, that is, from the British. This, after all, was the cradle of the revolution, the hotbed of discontent that led to the original Tea Party.

Marked by a thick red line on pavements, it takes around two hours - but demands much longer if you linger in its oldest churches and cemeteries. Visit King's Chapel with its wooden columns and Old North Church where John Wesley preached. From its tower a lantern flashed, alerting Paul Revere to the route British troops were taking so he could avoid them on his famous ride to Lexington.

BEST LUNCH SPOTS

Follow the Freedom Trail, through the Granary Burial Ground, which contains the graves of Revere and Samuel Adams, and on to Copps Hill graveyard, where Increase Mather of the notorious Salem witchcraft trials is buried, as is Captain Thomas Lake, "perfidiously slain by Indians" in a raid at the mouth of Maine's Kennebec River in 1676.

It is said the lead in his body was melted down and incorporated in his headstone. Having worked up an appetite, drop into the Union Oyster House. A half-dozen of the shellfish will cost $13.95 (8.50). Nearby is Hennessy's, "voted Boston's best Irish bar" six years in a row. Try the fresh scrod; young cod - or sometimes haddock - split and boned.

BEST COFFEE

Walk to the city's North End, which has been settled by an Italian community, and you'll come away convinced you can't find a finer cappuccino.

If you have time, join the long queues at the famous Mike's Pastry, even in the middle of the afternoon, for the best biscotti in Boston to enjoy with your coffee.

BEST ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

The North End is wall-to-wall Italian restaurants. You'd be hard pushed to find such a concentration even in Rome. Stop for a meal and watch ageing locals gather at tables towards the rear, bringing to mind The Godfather.

Try the family-friendly Giacomo's Ristorante, 355 Hanover Street, or the rustic but cosy Terramia Ristorante at 98 Salem Street (www.terramiaristorante.com).

BEST PLACES TO WALK IT ALL OFF

Cross the Charlestown Bridge to finish the walk at the monument to the Battle of Bunker Hill or scoot around Barnes & Noble's book store in the Prudential Centre. Boston's many other attractions include the Science Museum where, in a long-running live demonstration, bolts of lightning generated by a huge indoor generator illustrate the perils of being out in a thunderstorm, the aquarium, and the Museum of Fine Arts, whose new wing, designed by Sir Norman Foster, opened last November.

And of course there's shopping. It's not quite the treasure trove it was when a pound bought two dollars but there are still bargains to be had. At Marshall's on Boylston Street, where discounted designer levels abound, you can pick up a Ralph Lauren sweater for the equivalent of 26.

BEST FLIGHTS

Virgin Holidays (0844 5575925, www.virgin holidays.co.uk) offers four days with flights from Heathrow and accommodation at the boutique Back Bay Hotel for around 700, based on two sharing. Add 99 for a round-trip connection from Edinburgh.

This article was first published in Scotland On Sunday, 6 March, 2011