Travel: Berwick

Our family is feeling the financial squeeze, and in the current economic uncertainty, it seems a good idea to downsize our holiday habits and try something different. As our lot do not welcome long drives, we know our limits in the range of day trips. So with my brood – Eve, seven, and Hope, three – and Graham, my partner, we head off to Berwick-upon-Tweed to sample a budget overnight solution. Can we tighten our belts and still have a cracking good time?

Berwick is a historic town which has experienced a veritable "pass the parcel" between the Scots and the English throughout history. The city is ringed by military defences. Walking the elevated circuit around the town walls takes about 45 minutes and is a great way of tiring out young legs. Best of all, the ruined castle and ramparts are open all year round and entry is free. The painter LS Lowry loved coming here for holidays, and there is a designated trail of sites associated with him and his work. The Saturday market was in full swing on the baking-hot day we went, so some ice-cream was the order of the day before we found our base at Berwick Backpackers, along the very bohemian Bridge Street.

When you think of backpackers, let's be honest, you are not expecting a great deal in terms of accommodation, but hidden down a gated vennel we found a wonderful oasis for the tired traveller. Decorated with verdant foliage and cushioned benches just right for flopping down on, Berwick Backpackers is a hostel with a difference. A sneaky look at the visitors' book made for impressive reading. The owners Ian and Angela could not be more welcoming, and they explain that they try to upgrade visitors wherever possible, so we have lucked out with our own mini flat suite.

A double bedroom, with a tiny room off it for the girls, and a petite en suite suited us perfectly. Our two, who can manage to start a fight at the drop of the hat, slugged it out for top bunk rights. The room was spotless and there was a TV and DVD player. As we had a guided tour of the rest of the accommodation Ian and Angela told of their love of travelling, but as family commitments meant they could travel less they hit upon a money-making scheme to bring travellers to them.

The main house is really a lovely period family home converted to a wonderful mix of rooms so whatever your family's requirements are, they should have rooms to fit.

Not wanting to waste a minute of our trip, we headed straight back out to visit Berwick barracks. First off was a spot of drill practice for the girls in the parade ground. Then we inspected the troops before clambering on to a cannon for the obligatory photo opportunity and further exploration of the museum proper. The gals had great fun rushing around and answering an old-fashioned Bakelite phone from which you can make calls to different rooms in the museum. Meanwhile Graham was in historical heaven finding out about the life of the British infantryman.

Exhausted and hungry we opted for a special treat and had dinner at the local Chinese restaurant. The waiters were so attentive with the children, joining up chopsticks with elastic bands so they could enjoy the challenge of clearing their plates. There are lots of local restaurants you can try, but an alternative would be to cook your own feast back at the backpackers in the communal kitchen.

Sneaking down to the kitchen the next morning for a massive help-yourself breakfast we were impressed by the range of food on offer that is included in the price.

Cereals, drinks, yoghurts, warmed chocolate croissants, and bread for toast were all laid out for us. The kitchen looks glorious flooded in sunlight and I could picture myself, travelling around the globe, reading a book and finding every excuse not to move on from this spot.

The gals got up with the larks, as usual, and this short break suddenly made complete sense as we set off refreshed on yet another adventure. Surprise being the best tactic we could think of, we head south deep into English territory to make a dawn raid on Hadrian's Wall, with Hope in the pink fairy costume that she insisted on packing. Eve sighed wistfully: "Mum, I loved my holiday."

Hooray! A cost-effective success!

The Facts Berwick Backpackers, 56-58 Bridge Street, tel: [phone], www.berwickbackpackers.co.uk Prices start from 60 a night for the Fairweather family suite; Chesters Roman Fort and Museum, near Hexham, open 10am-6pm. Tickets: adults, 4.80, children, 2.40, concessions, 4.10, English Heritage members free.

• This article was first published in The Scotsman, Saturday July 3, 2010