Travel: Alt Na Craig, Oban

THE harbour town of Oban is so well known for its traditional-looking hotels and B&Bs (you'd be forgiven for thinking of Basil Fawlty as you passed some of them) that it's more than a pleasant surprise to discover this recently opened boutique guest house.

Perched half-way up a hill, it has superb views of the sea and nearby islands Kerrera, Lismore, Mull and Dunollie Castle and the Morvern Peninsular. John Stuart Blackie, professor of Greek at Edinburgh University, commissioned the stone, turreted building in 1865 and it has had several incarnations since, including serving as a residential home for the well-heeled.

The new owners, experienced hoteliers Sandy and Ina MacArthur, have completely refurbished it — including shifting several tonnes of earth to improve driveway access — to make it a stylish, contemporary retreat.

Wining and dining? Ina and Sandy are experts at breakfast, and will set you up for the day with a hearty feast – of which there are several tantalising options.

The eggs come from much-loved chickens on a nearby farm. For lunch or supper, the award-winning Coast seafood restaurant, with its fresh, creatively presented cuisine and sleek, modern decor is a five-minute drive – or 15-minute walk – away. Closer is the well-respected Seafood Temple, but it's only open half the week and is very small, so booking is essential.

There is also a fantastic seafood stall near the train station and a few pubs and bars around the harbour area.

Room service? Each room is named after one of the nearby – and some visible – islands: Kerrera, Lismore, Shuna, Mull, Easdale, Iona. The Kerrera is done up in subtle browns and has an enormous bed and a wonderfully large bathroom with freestanding bath. Each room is carefully and uniquely designed with striking silky curtains, fantastically comfortable beds and fresh, new bathrooms complete with mist-proof mirrors. Some rooms have their own separate little sitting-room areas too.

Everything is new and feels incredibly clean and sparkling – a far cry from the clich of harbour town B&Bs with their peeling paint and nylon curtains.

Worth getting out of bed for? You only have to look out of the windows for a taste of what's out there. The ferries will take you to a number of surrounding islands, but if you don't have enough time there are several boat trips on which you can spot seals and other sealife. Ron Atkinson, a former fisherman, who runs the Mara Mhor catamaran from just beyond the main harbour, knows the nearby islands and wildlife like the back of his hand and has a good repertoire of anecdotes about local folk.

For landlubbers, the nearby Seal Sanctuary might be a calmer option. And just getting there is fun in itself; as the West Highland Line provides an utterly charming journey, passing several beautiful lochs and travelling through breathtaking mountains along the way.

Budget or boutique? There are currently only six bedrooms, each with its own unique interior design. But while the style feels boutique, there's the added bonus of the human touch. There's a lovely lounge area in which to relax and recharge or read up on all the stimulation that awaits you outside.

Little extras? You really do feel as though you're staying with friends with a very large house, and Sandy is happy to ferry guests to and from the station. All rooms have flat-screen TVs with Freeview, iPod docks and a range of tea and coffee-making facilities and snacks, including treats from the Oban Chocolate Company.

Guestbook comments? Alt na Craig provides a good excuse for a longer stay in Oban rather than a stop-off en route to the islands. A night here will recharge your batteries for the most challenging travels but go soon as it closes 31 Oct to 1 April. Prices start from 100. Alt na Craig, Glenmore Road, Oban, Argyll (01631 564 524, www.guesthouseinoban.com).