Travel: 48 Hours in Phnom Penh

10am The National Museum (www.cambodiamuseum.info) is impressive for both its brilliant red Khmer architecture, and for its vast array of artefacts from the Angkorian era.

12:30pm Just across the road is the Royal Palace. The highlight of the visit is the magnificent Silver Pagoda, housing a life-size buddha encrusted with more than 2,000 diamonds.

3pm Enter the bustle of Cambodia's capital by heading to Central Market (Neayok Souk). At the heart of the city lies this sprawling art deco building, crammed with locals buying everything from exotic fish to shoes and jewellery.

6pm Cuisine from all over the world is available in Phnom Penh, but if you're feeling adventurous, wander back along the promenade near the palace to sample fried spider, crickets and cockroaches from street vendors. If that doesn't sound appealing, grab a sandwich and soak up the party atmosphere as locals stream out to enjoy the evening.

Sunday, 10am Hitch a ride on a taxi-bike to Choeung Ek, one of the many "killing fields" used by the Khmer Rouge during the genocide. Although it's surprisingly peaceful, be warned that it's not for the faint of heart; bone and pieces of cloth still litter the site. Tour guides are very enlightening, and ask only for a tip.

1pm Back in the city, continue on to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. This former school-turned-prison is a haunting reminder of events only 30 years ago.

4.30pm Wat Phnom sits atop a leafy hill like the crown of the city. The abundance of trees provides welcome shade for wild monkeys, and men playing the popular "keepie-up shuttlecock" game.

7pm Enjoy authentic Khmer food at the Bopha Phnom Penh Titanic Restaurant (www.bopha-phnompenh.com). This riverfront terrace is also one of the best places to see a performance of Apsara dancing.

THE FACTS

Return flights from Edinburgh to Phnom Penh start at 755 (www.travelpack.com).

This article was first published in The Scotsman, Saturday July 3, 2010