The nation's best cheeses will live up to any grate expectations

THANKS to television's insatiable appetite for programmes about food, it seems everyone's an expert in culinary matters these days.

As the restaurant-going public becomes more and more informed about what they are ordering, it's increasingly important for a chef to know where his or her produce comes from. Today's customers are especially happy to know that you're supporting local suppliers, while cutting down on the costs and environmental effects of transportation, and black marks can be awarded if you're spotted using produce that's out of season or transported long distances.

Sourcing produce that is as local and seasonal as it can be is an ethos many modern restaurateurs have sensibly taken to heart.

With specialist food shops and farmers' markets also promoting the benefits of buying locally, many small food producers from celebrated poultry farmers to artisan bread-makers are finding their reputation is spreading to a greater audience.

One such area of expertise that boasts a great deal of craftsmanship in Scotland is cheese-making. For years the French, Italians and the English have enjoyed world renown with their cheesy big hitters such as brie, Dolcelatte and stilton. Our Scottish cheeses may not have quite the same global reputation yet, but any restaurants who put together an all-Scottish cheeseboard will tell you that there's no shortage of local quality on offer.

While chefs are always striving to give their dishes that extra dimension of flavour, local Scottish cheeses are often name-checked as menu ingredients as well as being wheeled out on the cheese trolley. The fabulous blues, such as Dunsyre and Lanark, both from Scotland's own cheese-making Braveheart Humphrey Errington, can make a superb addition to classic soups, tarts and savoury cheesescakes. His smooth Lanark White can also serve as an excellent alternative to parmesan in a risotto, and has the added advantage of being suitable for vegetarians. The strong Scottish cheddars, such as the nutty Isle of Mull, tend to lend themselves well to tortillas and quiches, while the softer cheeses such as Howgate Brie can be a surprising yet delicious addition to homemade pizza, particularly when combined with green olives.

Goat's cheese is a favourite ingredient for many chefs thanks to its strong flavour, versatility and pleasing appearance when grilled. While most supermarket versions are from France there are a few Scottish varieties starting to appear on the market, such as Cairnsmore from Dumfries and Galloway. Ideal as a quick starter it can be grilled and served with salad leaves, or if you have a little more time used in a tartlet with spinach and sun-blushed tomatoes.

As we live in a country with an abundance of dairy farms and an increasingly sophisticated food culture it shouldn't be a surprise that Scottish cheese-makers are starting to make their voices heard. And by keeping a small selection of Scottish cheeses in your fridge you can give yourself some different options when adding flavours to your cooking while, like today's restaurateurs, impressing any ethically-minded dinner guests with your admirable sourcing policy.

Andy McGregor is chef/proprietor at Blonde Restaurant, 75 St Leonard's Street, 0131-668 2917