Sideplates: Plums

AFTER apples, plums are thought to be the oldest of our cultivated fruits. Members of the rose family, they grow extensively throughout the Northern temperate zones and are roughly divided into two categories; Japanese, thought to be the earliest, and introduced into Japan from China, and European varieties, which originate from Syria and were first cultivated by the Greeks. Plums are a rich source of Vitamins A and C, potassium, fibre and antioxidants.

Look for smooth, plump, well-coloured fruit that yields to gentle pressure and has a sweet aroma. Under ripe plums will ripen, stored at room temperature for a couple of days, but can be useful as they hold up to heat better than ripened ones. Ripe fruit should be stored in the fridge, but brought to room temperature before eating.

PLUM DUFF

110g self-raising flour; 110g vegetable suet; 220g currants or sultanas; 110g white breadcrumbs; 110g dark brown sugar; tsp mixed spice; tsp ground cinnamon; 1 grating of fresh nutmeg; 250g plums, stoned and coarsely chopped; lge cooking apple, peeled, cored and diced; 1 large orange, zest and juice; 4 tbsp dark rum; 2 large eggs, beaten; 225ml milk

Butter the inside of a 1-1.2 litre pudding basin. Mix all the dry ingredients in a large bowl. Add the other ingredients except the milk and mix well. Add the milk slowly, stirring until the mixture drops readily from a spoon. Pour into the pudding basin. Fold a large sheet of foil in two and create a double fold in the centre in the shape of a letter 'Z'. Tie the foil to the top of the basin with string and create a handle with more string to lift it in and out of the double steamer. Fill the bottom with boiling water, place the basin in the top and replace the lid. Steam for three hours, topping up with boiling water when necessary. Check every half hour to ensure it has not boiled dry. Remove the foil and loosen the pudding with a palette knife run around the inside edge. Turn onto a warmed serving dish and serve with custard or double cream.

CHINESE PLUM SAUCE

10 to 12 small plums; 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped; 40g red onion, finely chopped; 1 tbsp freshly-grated ginger; 2 tbsp soy sauce; tsp Thai sweet red chilli sauce

Halve the plums, discarding the stones, then cut each half into about six chunks. Place in a saucepan then mix in all the remaining ingredients. Cook over medium-low heat for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the plums are tender. Allow to cool slightly then transfer to a blender or food processor and pure until smooth. If the mixture is very stiff add a little water to thin it (four or five tablespoons are typical). Transfer to a clean jar and store in the refrigerator for up to six weeks.

• This article first appeared in Scotland on Sunday, September 12, 2010