Residents say last goodbye as 'notorious' estate is bulldozed

PAULINE GRIEVE'S face says it all when she starts talking about her childhood at Fort House.

With a large smile and an infectious enthusiasm, she fondly rattles off stories of playing hide and seek in the tower block housing estate, chasing friends along the many levels of the building and enjoying well-earned bags of chips with large pickled onions when all the games were over.

There is no denying how much the infamous Leith estate has affected the mother-of-two's life – it is part of who she is.

In fact, two years ago, it meant so much to the 39-year-old trained auxiliary nurse that after many years away from the area she moved back with her family.

"I was offered a house and people immediately said to me, 'You cannot move there'," she laughed. "For me, it was like I had won the lottery."

Fort House – or "The Fort" as it is better known – is either loved or loathed by those who live in it and nearby.

It has a notorious past, because for many years it was synonymous with drug abuse, antisocial behaviour and some of Edinburgh's worst troublemakers.

But for many people, all that it is, or has been, is simply home.

However soon it will cease to be anything more than a memory for the thousands who have ever lived in it, passed by or grown up in its North Fort Street neighbourhood, as council officials and residents have decided it should be bulldozed. The decision was not taken lightly by householders, who were asked before Christmas to vote "yes" or "no" to the demolition proposal, eventually agreeing that its outdated buildings had seen better days and were no longer worth the thousands of pounds of council money spent on them every year.

Sitting in her large, four- bedroom ground-floor flat with her 16-year-old daughter Stacey, Pauline is one of many residents in The Fort who hold nothing but fondness for the estate. For as long as she can remember, it has been part of her life and she is saddened to see it go.

Growing up around the corner, firstly in Cables Wynd House – better known as Leith's "Banana Flats" – and then on Great Junction Street, from the age of about eight to 15, she loved nothing more than playing with her friends who lived at The Fort.

"I couldn't wait for the summers – The Fort was like one big mansion for us all," she smiles.

"It was absolutely brilliant. I remember how we even used to walk along the tall walls that surround the estate. I always felt very happy and safe here.

"We used to spend hours playing – my parents always knew where I was and that I would return at the end of the day."

But Pauline is the first to admit that life at Fort House is very different to when she was a carefree Bonnington Primary pupil.

The building itself has changed through the introduction of security doors and gates and CCTV is now in 24-hour use in a bid to combat crime that plagued the estate more than ten years ago.

Pauline's childhood friend David Dunn, 39, has lived at Fort House all of his life, moving into his current second-floor two-bedroom flat 15 years ago. But he is now ready to leave, believing its houses are past their sell-by date and riddled with problems.

"It would not be a bad thing for The Fort to be knocked down if I am honest," he says.

The unemployed labourer stands in front of the dominating brown-brick building, looking up towards its many balconies, some flagged with washing, and sighs.

"When we were young, back in the old days, this was a great place to be. But when I got a bit older, it got wild," he says with a frank smile. "There was trouble with people starting fires and often blocking the entrance gates so the fire brigade couldn't get in.

"My mum and dad used to say they were worried I would get in with the wrong crowd.

"However, all that changed about ten years ago – the younger people grew up and settled down. When things were really bad, doctors wouldn't even come out on call here – you had to meet them outside the wall of the estate."

Pauline had previously laughed out loud, recalling the time when she had to meet a Chinese takeaway driver outside the walls of the estate because he refused to enter with her family's order – he was simply too scared.

"I had phoned for the food and they said 'no' when I told them my address," she smiled, shaking her head.

"They said they would not come here. So, to get it, I had to meet them at the concierge's office. Some people will come now, but there are still some that won't."

The saddest thing for residents at Fort House, is that that incident only happened two years ago, on one of the first nights Pauline had moved back to the once-troubled estate.

It seems that despite intensive police efforts, an increase in security and assurances from residents that the neighbourhood is a good, safe and welcoming place to live – like it was many decades ago – its reputation as one of the most notorious council estates in Edinburgh lives on.

Pauline's daughter Stacey, who has recently left Craigroyston High, frequently has to defend Fort House's reputation among school friends.

"People say, 'You live there?' and I say it's no big deal. It's like people think if you come in here, you'll never get out again.

"When you live here, people look after each other – I never have to watch my back and I feel safe.

"If it wasn't being demolished, I would be happy to continue living here."

In the grounds of the estate, a group of infants is eagerly making use of the play area, excitedly clambering on equipment and calling out as they kick balls to each other.

Grandmother-of-17, Pat Doyle, watches on with her 13-month-old granddaughter Amy – just one member of her family who is a frequent visitor to Fort House.

The 49-year-old first lived on the estate 15 years ago, raising her six children, before moving away, but returning again in 2005.

"It really upsets me to hear people speaking badly of The Fort," she says, rocking Amy on her knee. "I just cannot fault this place – it has a great sense of community.

"I really think it should just have been refurbished, not knocked down.

"I raised children here as teenagers and although they ran about, like all youngsters of that age, they were certainly not breaking into houses or stealing cars."

EIGHT-YEAR PLAN

HUNDREDS of council houses were earmarked for demolition in November 2006 when officials signed off an eight-year phased programme of works.

Fort House, built in the 1960s, was just one of four estates across Edinburgh to be selected. The others are in North Sighthill, Gracemount and Pennywell.

Through their removal, the council intends to bring all its housing up to the Scottish Housing Quality Standard by 2015.

A date for the demolition of the 157-property Fort House, built on the site of an 18th century fort once used to defend Leith, has not yet been settled, although re-housing the tenants is expected to begin in late-2010.

Elsewhere, most residents in Gracemount have already been re-housed, and those living in Pennywell and North Sighthill are beginning the process of being allocated new homes across the city.

One block in North Sighthill – Broomview House – was bulldozed last September, with most former tenants say they are now very satisfied in their new homes.

Re-housing from Hermiston Court was completed last November, tenants living in Weir Court are expected to be moved by the end of the year and those in the remaining multi-storey block, Glenalmond, will move from autumn 2010.

In Gracemount, the blocks will be demolished in the autumn of 2009.

Residents have also started vacating blocks in Pennywell.