Peter Fleming: Now's the right time to shell out on mussels

WHEN it comes to enjoying food in the Capital, we have a lot to shout about. Recently, Edinburgh eateries were awarded five separate coveted Michelin stars, making the city second only to London in concentration of top-class restaurants. Indeed, there have never been more opportunities in the city to experience the finest of modern Scottish dining and all on your own doorstep.

The abundance of great local produce helps. Scotch beef is world renowned, with a reputation for excellent flavour, and our lamb sits on tables all over the world. Artisan herb growers supply all over the country, with Scottish products being shipped to five-star hotels in London for the great and good to taste.

Scottish berries are coveted throughout the country when the season hits its peak and our rivers and seas are positively bursting at the seams with outstanding seafood.

But at this time of year, the Scottish menus are set to be filled with one seasonal dish in particular – mussels. And, with this easy to cook shellfish, there's no excuse not to create some fine dining in your own kitchen. After all, Scottish mussels are in season and worth shouting about, courtesy of our crystal-clear waters, which create the perfect growing ground for juicy, fat molluscs.

Mussels can be bought either frozen or fresh, but take care when buying fresh. Any open shells that don't close when tapped should be discarded before cooking and any shells that remain closed once cooked should be thrown out.

While it may be easy to be put off cooking fresh mussels, if you follow some simple rules you will be on your way to culinary success. To clean mussels, scrub in plenty of cold water to remove barnacles or sand. If any of the mussels have a beard, simply remove by giving a sharp tug at the hinge end and it should come away cleanly. Stand in cold water and discard any that float to the surface.

Although mussels have a long tradition of being a staple for Scots, they lend themselves to many different styles of cuisine. Try a delicious French-style bouillabaisse with other shellfish and served with crusty French bread. Alternatively, cooked and shelled mussels can be used in a fish pie along with a variety of fish and topped with creamy mash.

Mussels are simple to steam and it's a good opportunity to add different flavours depending on your mood. Garlic and white wine give a classic French bistro dish, while adding coriander and lemongrass gives a distinctly Thai flavour. Coconut milk and ginger in steamed mussels is another fantastic Thai-inspired dish which is simple to make. Or, for something even more filling, pay homage to Spain by adding in chorizo, onion and tomatoes for a hearty meal.

Peter Fleming is head chef at Hadrian's Brasserie in The Balmoral hotel, www.thebalmoral hotel.com, 0131-556 2414.