Outdoors: A soaring seabird safari round the Bass Rock

If Fidra, the small island off the coast of North Berwick, was the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson's Treasure Island, perhaps Alfred Hitchcock visited the Bass Rock before making one of his suspense films. As we sped across the water towards this 350-million-year-old chunk of volcanic rock it looked as though the island had been sprinkled with icing sugar. Drawing closer, this white coating was obviously moving, with little clouds of white rising up and gliding through the air.

Bass Rock has, for half of the year, the largest gannet colony in the world, with around 50,000 mated-for-life pairs. The largest of seabirds, with a wingspan of 6ft, they swoop and dive, returning to preen their other half when beckoned.

From April to October it is possible to get close, though not too personal as these are extremely territorial birds, on board the Scottish Seabird Centre's Bass Rock Seabird Seafari boat trips. Leaving from the harbour in the centre's new rigid inflatable boat clad in waterproofs and lifejackets, this hour-long trip is both fascinating and fun.

The first port of call is the smaller island, Craigleith, where several bird species nest and a few seals bask. As we approached, guide Colin pointed out some puffins having a Sunday morning swim beside us.

Looking at the rocks ahead, he said: "There are some guillemots. And look, some shags," which evoked a stifled snigger from my teenage son.

These rangy black/green birds look quite magnificent as they stand with wings outspread to dry. The loud chatter of the kittiwakes almost drowned out Colin's commentary as we circumnavigated the island.

Then it was engines full blast as we headed to the Bass Rock, an exhilarating ride which made me glad of the handle in front. It wasn't a particularly windy day, but sitting astride the seats was like taking part in a Wild West rodeo. There is a lighthouse and ruins of a prison ("Scotland's Alcatraz") on the island. The lighthouse is now fully automated and the remains of the keeper's garden are still there.

I reckon the previous residents must have had diminished olfactory senses as the smell we experienced from about ten yards away was quite overwhelming.

So if the sun is shining, grab your binoculars and head to North Berwick. Just make sure that you haven't watched Hitchcock's The Birds the night before.

Scottish Seabird Centre, The Harbour, North Berwick EH39 4SS. Tickets for the Bass Rock Seabird Seafari cost 22 for adults and 17 for children (age 8 to 16). Tel: [phone] to reserve places. www.seabird.org/boat-trips.asp

• This article was first published in The Scotsman on Saturday, May 29, 2010