Love Cooking Festival: Chefs get taste of rock star status at cooking festival

And he served them up with a cheeky grin. Who cared that he was supposed to be creating a tiramisu? His hirsute display was the kind of Italian pick-me-up they had been baying for since they'd arrived at the Playhouse, in a manner most unusual for Edinburgh's ladies who lunch, and even those who make lunch.

D'Acampo, perhaps best known these days for killing and cooking a rat before being crowned King of the Jungle in I'm A Celebrity Get Me Out of Here, was in the Capital as part of the Love Cooking Festival, a day of live cookery and book signings by some of the most celebrated chefs currently on the small screen.

Even before he took to the stage there was foot stamping and wolf-whistling, the kind of lust frenzy generally reserved for boy bands. Which probably makes D'Acampo the cheffing equivalent of a Jonas brother - at least a much earthier, older brother. "Look how many beautiful women there are... and ugly men," he purred as he took to the stage around 2pm yesterday. "Enjoy the view ladies it's all good... you know Italian food is like Italian men, minimum effort, maximum satisfaction." How they loved it. D'Acampo certainly had the jus flowing.

Yet the day hadn't begun quite so blatantly. Starter on the menu of culinary delights was James Martin of Saturday Kitchen fame. Giving his tips on how to cook for friends, including a pat of Arbroath smokies with beetroot and loin of lamb with celeriac puree, followed by a white chocolate and whisky croissant pudding.

His audience too though were giggling like schoolgirls at his jokey banter and deliberate faux pas, including double-dipping his fingers to taste his creations, wiping his nose with the tea towel, then wiping a plate with the same cloth. "You know you all do it at home," he laughed, "and you've probably got mould growing round your fridges..."

If D'Acampo later wooed his audience, Martin's Yorkshire banter was more modest. "You don't need to clap, I'm not a performing sealion," he admonishes at one point, although later takes an obvious delight with the silent awe he inspires when he delicately spins sugar for his dessert. "And that takes this dessert from 10 to 20," he laughs.

"He is wonderful, we watch him every weekend," 61-year-old Ann Thompson almost sighs. The medical secretary from Falkirk had been on stage tasting Martin's creations after being plucked from the audience. "It's been fantastic. I won tickets to come here and then got to meet him and taste his food.It was wonderful - I'm a real fan."

Accountant Richie McKillop also got the chance to go on stage. The 31-year-old from Leith says: "My mum saw this advertised and got me to get the tickets and she's come across from Ireland for this. But he is brilliant. I watch him every Saturday nursing a hangover. The food was delicious and he was a great laugh."

Indeed his mother, 54-year-old supermarket owner Patricia McKillop just couldn't stop smiling. "I know," she laughs. "I just can't believe I've seen him. I've come across from County Antrim for this. I am such a fan. Watching him on a Saturday morning is my "me" time - all my friends know not to even try to phone me then."

Friends Ruth Hume from Penicuik and June Kavak from Larkhall were also overwhelmed by the Martin effect. "It's a bit like he's a rock star isn't it," laughs Ruth, 59. "I laughed so much I had a sore face. You can't help but like him, he's so nice... and his cooking's great too. I really wanted to see him do the spun sugar. It was a toss-up between coming to see James or Gino who I like as well, but James won for me."

Fiona Lamont, a 25-year-old teacher from Law, South Lanarkshire, was one of the crowd queuing to have her copy of the Love Cooking recipe book signed by Martin after his demonstration. "There's actually more of a mix of people here than I'd expected," she says. "But I am a huge fan of James Martin. Saturday Kitchen is my must-watch show because I love to cook desserts and that's what he's especially good at."

Later a giggling group of 16-year-old pupils from The Royal High School watch and film Martin's every move on their mobile phones as he kneads bread with Fiona Burrell of the Edinburgh New Town Cookery School. "He is just so lovely," gushes Rebecca Brass. "And he's a great cook too, of course." Of course.

There was educational merit in their trip though, explains home economics teacher Jill Templeton. "They're studying Intermediate Hospitality and they've paid themselves to come to see the experts. It gives them a real insight."

Martin himself though was also quite overwhelmed. "I'm doing three of these live shows and it's brilliant to meet the people who do watch the TV show. You don't get much reaction doing television, so it's great to meet people who will actually come out at 10 in the morning to watch and to get involved. It's great to be more interactive," he says.

"But this has been like a rock concert. Food is such a massive subject these days and people seem to get really into it," he laughs.

While the crowds roam around the demonstration stalls from Lakeland to the Food Network and Kin Knives, Gino D'Acampo and Mary Contini, director of Elm Row delicatessen Valvona and Crolla are warming up for their double act.

The diminutive Neapolitan is as hands-on an Italian as you expect from watching him on television, all double kisses and double entendres. He is certainly delighted to be in Edinburgh."Mary and I met once before when I was filming in Valvona and Crolla," he says. "So it is great to be able to work with her on stage. Italians respect each other, food is not about ego. It's great to be here to share the passion for Italian food that I have with everyone in Edinburgh. There are so many Italians in Edinburgh I cannot believe it."

"He is very charming," laughs Mary. "Although he'd probably be more interested in my daughter. My mother-in-law is coming to see him and she's told me not to fancy him. All the Italian families are coming to see him... all the generations... all the women."

D'Acampo adds: "Italian food is all about simplicity, that's what sets it apart from other cuisines. We use few ingredients unlike the French, Indian or Chinese, and we make something magical. Today we'll be doing mezzelune (half moon) fresh filled pasta with butternut squash, walnuts and raisins. It is beautiful." He kisses the tips of his fingers.

Perhaps it's the time he's on stage but the crowd is larger for D'Acampo than it had been in the morning. They're a bit restive as wine expert Olly Smith (who had his first taste of wine as a student in Edinburgh) chats about whiskies with a Sainsbury's blender, and the wolf-whistles and cheers start.

The place almost erupts when D'Acampo the entree finally arrives. There are calls from women all across the auditorium - some have even travelled from Manchester to see him. Questions are asked as he cooks tuna, then the pasta, but most concern where he's staying in Edinburgh.

And when he finally strips, well forget Nigella, this is food porn made flesh. Appetites are truly satisfied.