Interview: Fashion designer Judy R Clark

The 26-year-old's chic black-and-white cats, Vivienne and Westwood, are stretched out on a slice of spring sunshine on the living room floor – they're banned from the studio, in case they shred the magnificent bridal gown that's in progress there – and her latest collection of frock coats and crinoline dresses lines the wall, begging to be touched, stroked and – most of all – tried on.

Clark's elaborate designs, with their bustles, petticoats and vintage lace trimmings, hand-embroidered panels, high collars and cuffs and quirky detailing, all make a nod to times gone by. However, while the young designer may be inspired by the past – "I loved The House of Eliot (the 1920s-set fashion drama, which ran on the BBC in the early 1990s] as a child and watched it constantly" – her work has a distinctly modern, theatrical edge, teaming Harris tweeds with exquisite Nepali silks and buttons hand-painted by her artist sister.

She is busy putting the finishing touches to the six outfits she will take to Dressed to Kilt, in New York next month. Hosted by Sean Connery, the event will be attended by Gerard Butler, Alan Cumming, Mike Myers and Joan Jett, among many others, and is a showcase for all that is magnificent about modern Scottish design. The theme for this year is Mad for Scotland – essentially celebrating eccentric style and an anything-goes attitude. Which is right up Clark's noisy street.

Born in Fort William, she graduated with a fashion degree from Heriot Watt University in 2006 before working as an intern with Alexander McQueen. "We didn't really see him that often in the studio because he was a very private person and kept himself to himself, but I learned so much about design and the fashion business from being there," she says. "The amount of time and patience that went into these one-off garments was absolutely incredible. Everything was hand-stitched in tiny detail. It was an amazing experience and I absolutely loved it. It was hard work, but I'd do it all again in a minute. McQueen was an original, a true talent."

Now based in Edinburgh, Clark creates colourful garments combining fabrics hand-woven by her Uncle Donald, who has a loom in Shawbost, Lewis, with the exotic jewel shades of Nepal. So it comes as a surprise to learn that her entire graduate show was in cream. She laughs. "After that I just wanted to go mad for colour."

Bespoke wedding dresses by Clark can cost 4,000 while jackets retail at around 400. "Some people just buy them as an artwork for the house, so they can look at them," she shrugs. "And some students spend 400 or 500 on a jacket, which I find fascinating because they're obviously on student loans and will be living on beans for the rest of the month."

Nominated as Designer of the Year in 2009's Scottish Fashion Awards, Clark is obviously a name to watch, though she admits her work "isn't 100 per cent commercial". However, she is now working on a diffusion line that will be more wearable, while keeping her trademark details. She's also aiming at the Japanese market while continuing to collaborate with Harris Tweed. And while it looks as though every dramatic piece of clothing must take weeks to create, she insists it's a labour of love. "People always ask me how long it takes to make them, but when you love something you just don't notice the time passing. I honestly couldn't tell you how long it takes. I just enjoy it."

Judy R Clark's designs are available at Chez Camille,Glasgow, and at her Edinburgh studio (www.judyrclark.com). Dressed to Kilt takes place in New York on 5 April – some of the designs will be on sale in a pop-up shop at 13 East 69th Street from 6 to 11 April

This Article was first published in Scotland on Sunday, March 28, 2010