Interiors: Discover the secrets of an 18th-century smuggler in a Georgian bolt-hole with a fascinating history

He was a notorious "Mr Big" of Scotland's east-coast smuggling world during some of the most tumultuous years of the 18th century, and his Georgian mansion, built with the proceeds from his contraband, still dominates Eyemouth Harbour.

But now the secrets of John Nisbet's Gunsgreen House – which remained hidden for more than 250 years – have been laid bare by the Gunsgreen House Trust, bringing the house alive once more.

Among its secrets are underground tunnels, a chamber beneath the floorboards, in which to hide from excise officers, and – on a par with current day "cannabis farm" enterprises – a secret tea chute for hiding the highly prized commodity. Tea, taxed at 119 per cent, was so valuable Nisbet "cut" it with lesser quality teas, selling it in tiny packets from his parlour.

Gunsgreen has recently undergone a 2.4m restoration with the bottom half of the house opened as a museum. However, those renting the top two storeys, known as The Merchant's House, are in the unique position of being able to explore – you can lift the trap door on the landing to peer into a hiding place for storing smuggled goods, look into the tea chute from a hidden hatch, and examine all sorts of mysterious lintels and false windows that give an idea of Nisbet's ingenuity.

The house was built by Edinburgh architect John Adam and historians believe he had a tacit and complicit role designing a custom-made dwelling suitable for a smuggler whose goods were highly sought-after by wealthy Edinburgh citizens. Certainly, the building was mentioned in the Victorian smuggling adventure Eustace the Outcast by David Pae. After sweeping up the imposing staircase into Gunsgreen House, guests unhook the heavy rope blocking off the upstairs to museum visitors, and proceed to the Merchant's House.

Opening the wooden shutters in the high-ceilinged drawing room with its strategic view across the harbour and out to sea conjures up images of covert smuggling runs taking place under cover of darkness with ships awaiting secret flashes from lanterns, the signal to unload their cargo to be carried by horse to Gunsgreen.

Above the fireplace in the sitting room is a panel by contemporary artist Eric Ritchie depicting exciseman David Moncur being ambushed by smugglers on his way back to Dunbar. Scarlet campion flowers – representing the danger and romance of smuggling – can be spotted in the painting.

Massive connecting wooden doors lead through to the dining room where a John Bellany painting of modern-day Eyemouth quayside, complete with white van, hangs above the marble fireplace.

Bellany presided over the official opening of the house in March. He has a deep bond with it – his grandmother was born in Gunsgreen and his mother worked there. Another Bellany painting hangs on the landing.

With five bedrooms – one with a four-poster bed – and three bathrooms, one with a cast iron freestanding bath, another suitable for people with disabilities, the accommodation, sleeping up to 11 guests, is ideal for family gatherings, friends hooking up, corporate visits or even murder mystery weekends. Gunsgreen is also licensed for weddings and civil ceremonies.

The house's former dovecote, now known as Nisbet Tower, sleeps two and can be rented separately.

With squashy sofas and Georgian-style furniture alongside mod cons such as digital television and a supply of DVDs, the Merchant's House is a unique bolthole.

The museum is ideal for all ages, especially children whose imagination may be sparked by reading Secrets of the Smuggler's House by Fay Waddell, the tale of a sister and brother who go on holiday to the house and discover its secrets.

On arrival at the museum each child is given a bag of "tea" to smuggle through the house – an adventure starting with a secret tunnel behind a fireplace.

There is a wardrobe full of smuggler costumes for young visitors and at the end of the trail they can "post" the tea down a tea chute and are rewarded with a "Qualified Tea Smuggler" certificate signed by "John Nisbet of Gunsgreen".

A walk along the quay, past the Fishermen's Mission and the butcher, baker and fishmonger, the fishing museum and Smokehouse gallery, and on to the town's bucket-and-spade beach, is a delight.

En route is the "Ocean Maid" fish caravan selling treats such as hot kipper buns and where you can buy bags of herring pieces to throw to the seals that gather in the harbour in anticipation of the free feast. There are also fishing rods to clip the fish on to, for lowering down to the seals.

A day at the seaside has to include fish and chips and ice-cream, so a visit to Giacopazzi's is a must. Founded by current owner Peter Giacopazzi's great-grandfather who sold ice-cream from his bicycle, the business was developed by Peter to include the award-winning Obl restaurant.

This stylish establishment offers fine dining from breakfast to dinner using fresh seafood and Borders ingredients.

A recent dinner menu included a starter of Eyemouth crab with tomato and avocado, citrus dressing and pink peppercorns, followed by butternut squash and spring onion tart, watercress salad, new potatoes and Parmesan velout. The yummy range of desserts included strawberry and rosewater jelly with Champagne salbayon and basil sorbet.

Eyemouth, just under 50 miles from Edinburgh, is also an ideal base for visiting the nearby diving and surfing havens of St Abb's and Coldingham.

If you were thinking of taking up smuggling, however, it might be best to start by visiting Gunsgreen and Eyemouth and getting tips from the master.

THE FACTS

To book the Merchant's House, Eyemouth, contact Derek Janes of The Gunsgreen House Trust on 018907 52062. The building sleeps up to 11 people and costs from 1,100 to 1,600 per week. Scotsman readers can get a 10 per cent discount by quoting "The Scotsman".

Visit www.holidays.scotsman.com for more UK holidays

• This article was first published in The Scotsman on 15 May.