Food: Imaginative vegetarian menu will please even confirmed carnivores

THE Royal Highland Show's in full swing, but what if all those haunches of beef and rolls of meat aren't to your taste?

Best in show might end up as a prime cut, but for vegetarians the thought of all that flesh is enough to have them running for the nearest lentil loaf.

Thankfully, David Bann has made a career out of dishing up superb vegetarian offerings that are not only manna from heaven for non-meat eaters, but a delight for carnivores seeking a meat-free day.

Last year the St Mary's Street venue was named best vegetarian restaurant in the UK by the BBC'S foodie magazine, Olive, a glittering prize indeed for David Bann who has spent ten years dishing up high- quality veggie offerings for city diners.

What's particularly pleasing is that this Old Town restaurant doesn't screech "veggie" at its clients - its style is sleek and contemporary and, most importantly, the menu isn't weighed down by pulses, grains and the threat of gastronomic upset from too many greens.

Choose from starters such as tartlet of blue cheese and slow dried tomato or smoked mushroom and basil tortellini served in a watercress soup (both 6.15). For the mains, look out for the souffl of Dunsyre blue cheese, beetroot and apple served with grilled olive polenta and tarragon butter spinach (12.75), or tasty rice pancakes filled with spicy potato, mushroom and chickpeas smothered in an aromatic coconut, courgette and tomato sauce (11.90).

Desserts come with the emphasis on fresh fruit - lemon and raspberry posset or hot peach and raspberry tart (both 5.60) plus homemade ice creams and sorbets.

n David Bann, 56-58 St Mary's Street, Edinburgh. www.davidbann.com, tel: [phone]