Fashion: Lyndsay Pagan and Jenn Coyle's Victoriana Punk Collection is getting these girls noticed

SHRINKING violets they're not. Lyndsay Pagan and Jenn Coyle's fashion mantra is "more is more", and they combine daring creativity with a punk attitude. Together they are Obscure Couture - and their debut collection is rather more Lady Gaga than ladylike.

At their show during London Fashion Week, masked models rocked the Strand Palace Hotel catwalk in a transparent, backless lace ballgown teamed with biker boots, a gold leather jumpsuit and silver playsuit complete with bustle. "We call it street or stagewear for the introverted extrovert," laughs Pagan. "Both of us have a tendency to lean towards the 'more is more' school of thought so it suited us quite well.

"The collection is based on Victoriana punk. We love the exuberance and opulence of the Victorian period, and the contrast between tough leather and soft silk. Both of us have quite a lot of attitude and we wanted to do something different, that would stand out. These are clothes for confident ladies."

Hide Ad

Pagan, 26, and Coyle, 25, both Glasgow girls, met while studying at Heriot Watt University's School of Textiles and Design in Galashiels. "Fashion was never really that big a thing for me when I was younger," admits Coyle. "I was quite a tomboy. Fashion was something I got into as I got a bit older and began to realise what it was. I remember my dad taking me to the Italian Centre and looking at all the clothes, realising how beautiful they could be. That was when I realised that was what I wanted to do."

Showing at London Fashion Week was "amazing!" they both squeal together. "It was unreal," says Coyle. "The reception we got was so positive. One of the PRs said our collection was the most exciting she'd seen all week."

"We got so much good feedback," says Pagan. "There were a lot of stylists there, and now most of our collection is in London as a result, being used for shoots. We even have a backlog of stylists wanting our stuff."

The pair get their inspiration from everywhere and everything, and they like to play with contrasts. "Generally we wear big boots and wee dresses," says Pagan. "We like to dress quite sexily," adds Coyle. "We're ripped tights and leather jackets girls."

But their customers defy categorisation. They can be young or old - as long as they share a willingness to get themselves noticed. "Our customer is everyone," says Coyle. "We get a lot of young girls, we get a lot of older ladies. It's people who are strong and confident and like to stand out from the crowd."

"Especially now," adds Pagan, "when there's so much disposable fashion. We want to make things that last, that people will actually appreciate. Every single town in the UK has exactly the same chain stores and we wanted to make something different. There is a gap in the market. And with pop stars like Lady Gaga, there is a tendency for people to go more for the extreme."

Hide Ad

Talking of whom, I can picture La Gaga in any number of their creations. "She'd be great," says Coyle, "I think that would be a perfect audience for us."

Following on from their success in London, they are now in the process of setting up a website and online store, which Coyle says should be up and running within a couple of months. "We want to do an Obscure Your Own Couture," she says, "where you would take the shell of the garment and bit by bit you can add on the extra things we have like the studs and the hand embroidery. People can choose to add them on or leave them off."

Hide Ad

"We're also working on a diffusion range, which will be a lower price point and more wearable, with lots of jerseys and printed T-shirts. And everything is handmade in Scotland. We have a seamstress here who we use and we do all our own patterns. There is a factory in Alloa which has just confirmed it will be working with us."

"We feel really strongly about keeping all the construction in Scotland, revitalising the economy and keeping it local," says Pagan.

Another project is working with Harris Tweed as part of its centenary celebrations. "There was a fashion show in Stornoway. Quite a few designers were involved - Vivienne Westwood sent up something from her collection - then it will go on tour."

Obscure Couture on tour. It has a nice ring to it. And did the girls don one of their own flesh-flashing designs while in Stornoway. "We wish!" they laugh. "We can't fit into any of our clothes." n

Ruth Walker

www.obscure-couture.com; www.dollboutique.co.uk from May

• This article was first published in the Scotland on Sunday on March 27, 2011

Related topics: