Cycling: Many routes through the Catalan Pyrenees follow routes of old railway lines, but watch out for the wild horses

THE sun shines on a lush green meadow, strong rays picking out brilliant pinks and purples in the myriad wild flowers surrounding lichen-covered boulders. Craggy peaks rise behind fragrant pines beneath a perfect blue sky.

After a steep upward climb it is an irresistible picnic spot and, as we tuck into tasty baguettes of local cheese and ham, the only sound is the wind in the trees and a faint clunking of bells somewhere in the woods behind.

The bells get progressively louder and suddenly a group, not of cows but horses, emerges, a vision of glossy chestnut coats and flaxen manes.

Too late, we realise they intend to ambush us for our sandwiches and a brief comedy panic breaks out as one of us escapes to the top of the largest nearby rock while the other shoos them away.

In the valley below our picnic site, a portrait capturing the wild horses' proud character hangs in the restaurant of Hotel Saurat in the Pyrenean town of Espot. History, both regional and personal, fills this welcoming establishment with everything from gramophones to toy cars competing for space.

Passed from generation to generation since the 1800s, it is currently run by Toni Montaa, whose daughter, Silvia, handles reception.

Over half a century ago, the land where the horses still roam became, and remains, the only Spanish national park in Catalonia, Parc Nacional d'Aiguestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici. Aiguestortes, meaning twisted waters in the Catalan language, is a reference to the endless tumbling streams, flowing between more than 200 deep glacial lakes, or estanys.

In common with the rest of the independent-minded region of Catalonia, signs are written first in Catalan, then Spanish. The national park office in Espot is a great source of information in English too, if required.

Despite the fleet of Land Rover taxis shuttling back and forth taking tourists to and from the park, it is easy to find solitude along the numerous trails in refugios, which offer not only shelter from bad weather and free accommodation, but also refreshments and games.

Local restaurants make the most of the plentiful harvest from land and lake with wild boar, mushrooms and trout all prized and, even in peak season, Espot retains a relaxed, traditional feel. The open-air public swimming pool is still free, and a massive St Bernard dog lumbering past adds some clichd mountain charm - until I spot him later going through the rubbish bins.Hikers and climbers may have discovered the Pyrenees first, but the range is also popular with cyclists.

It is 100 years since the mountains were included in the epic Tour de France route, adding gruelling climbs and exhilarating descents to the infamous cycling challenge. But thanks to Spain's Via Verdes, or Greenways, you don't need to be Lance Armstrong to cycle here.

These popular biking trails follow old railway lines, with one route stretching from Ripoll in the Pyrenean foothills via Girona to the Mediterranean coast. Unfortunately for us though, things start badly. We opt to use public transport to take ourselves and our hire bikes from Girona-based cycling tour operator, Cicloturisme, the 60-odd miles inland to Ripoll. It is far cheaper than the firm's private transfer but also needlessly problematic.

The bus company will not accept advanced bookings for people or bikes, and at one point we are told we must dismantle our bicycles and pack them into special bike boxes, which Cicloturisme does not provide. Eventually we are allowed to travel after wrapping binbags around the bikes.

A warm welcome awaits us at La Trobada in Ripoll, where hotel staff enthusiastically explain everything from where the market is to the bloody origins of the red and yellow-striped Catalan flag and, after a refreshing beer on the terrace, we head into town, ambling through ancient labyrinthine streets.

We have heard about a Michelin-star restaurant in Olot, our next destination, but strike lucky here with La Piazzetta offering mouthwatering mains without a hefty price tag.

Olives in martini jelly, then a delicious ricotta and pear pasta dish for me, with mushroom risotto for my friend, and for dessert, chocolate ice-cream - with, believe it or not, olive oil and salt.

Really? The waiter assures me diners enjoy it, but sadly it turns out I'm not one of them.

The next morning we make a brief stop at Ripoll's ornate monastery, founded by one Wilfred the Hairy in 880, before pedalling off to St Joan de Les Abadesses, where we join a few confused cyclists hunting the route, which switches from old railway to road on the other side of the medieval mountain town. Being Lance Armstrong would definitely help right now, and as my mountain-biking friend forges ahead with ease, I labour up slowly behind.

But the panorama at the top - miles of tree-covered volcanic peaks - is worth the effort and so is zooming downhill into Olot, where we recover in the comfortable La Perla hotel.

Our second day takes us through rich pastureland, passing trees laden with figs and pomegranates and we arrive at Girona, saddlesore but happy before returning the bikes and catching a train to Barcelona.

There our journey's end is marked by the fireworks of a summer fiesta and the best part is, to enjoy the stunning display against a backdrop of the panoramic views of the city from the Hotel Torre Catalunya, we don't have to move an inch.Factfile

Easyjet (www.easyjet.com) flies daily to Barcelona from Newcastle from 25.99 each way.

Hotel Saurat, Plaa Sant Mart 1, 25597 Espot, Lleida, Catalonia ([phone], www.hotelsaurat.com ). Double rooms from €86 (74) B&B, half board from €112 (96)

Gran Hotel Torre Catalunya, Avda. Roma, 2-4, 08014 Barcelona ([phone], www.torrecatalunya.com). Double rooms from €100 (85) B&B.

La Trobada, P Compositor Honotat Vilamanya, 4-5, 17500, Ripoll ([phone], www.latrobadahotel.com). Double rooms from €88 (75) B&B, half board from €119 (102).

La Perla, Av Sta Coloma, 97, 17800 Olot, (Girona) ([phone], www.laperlahotels.com). Double rooms from €92 (78) B&B, half board from €116 (99).

A six-day, self-guided route with Cicloturisme from Ripoll to the Mediterranean coast involves cycling on average 40km per day (25 miles) and costs from €558 (475) per person (minimum two) including bicycle hire, five nights B&B in two or three star hotels, luggage transfers and a basic information pack. Transfers from Girona to Ripoll and back from St Feliu to Girona cost from €59 (50), ([phone], www.cicloturisme.com).