Award-winning mixologists put city cocktail bars on map

SHAKEN or stirred, on the rocks, straight up, down the hatch.

Whether you're partial to a smooth vodka martini, a creamy White Russian, a tropical pina colada or a sophisticated Manhatten - or are brave enough to ask the bartender for one with a terribly rude name - while the nation's finances go down the drain, we're toasting it all with a cocktail. Edinburgh has never boasted quite so many cocktail bars, mixologists or mind-bending cocktail menus.

And what used to be a simple choice between a few standard classic tipples is now a long list of exotic, unique and heady brews conjured up by some of the country's best mixologists.

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Indeed, the Capital is home to more award-winning cocktail mixers than you can shake a paper umbrella and a swizzle stick at. So why are we so hooked on our happy hour hooch? And just what is it about Edinburgh that means when it comes to cooking up a cocktail, we're better than the rest?

According to Ben Murdoch, award-winning mixologist at the Tonic Bar in North Castle Street, Edinburgh drinkers have embraced cocktail culture with an enthusiasm even the financially challenging times can't dent.

"People will always manage to find money to buy a cocktail even if, financially, things are a bit down.

"They are a treat, they make you feel good and there are plenty that don't cost that much, so you still feel you're having something special.

"There's very high demand for cocktails in Edinburgh, mostly from girls on nights out, they go out specially to have cocktails," he adds.

"For some people it's partly to do with the theatre of it, they enjoy watching the bartender make them."

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There's lively competition among the city's bartenders too – adding a cocktail champion tag to their CV can propel them to running the show in some of the Capital's better cocktail bars.

Certainly barely a week goes by without another city-based bartender beating the competition: earlier this month Ben scooped top prize at Caorunn Scottish Gin's summer cocktail competition, while Jamie MacDonald of Raconteur in Stockbridge beat 600 international shakers to be named World Class 2011 in London.

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According to Mike Aikman of Queen Street cocktail specialists Bramble Bar, the Edinburgh scene is recognised nationwide for the calibre of its mixologists and the mouth-watering cocktails they create.

"Edinburgh is very well known for producing good bartenders, male and female," he agrees. "Why does the city do so well? Possibly because there's quite a close knit community, all the bartenders know each other and meet frequently, so there's a healthy level of competition among them.

"They see guys come through from working behind the bar to winning competitions and then going on to open their own places or getting good jobs with big drink brands like Diageo or Bacardi. There's definitely career opportunities out there for people who are good."

On the other side of the bar, the cocktail craze is partly being driven by drinkers eager to enjoy a taste of something different and keen to buck the general financial gloom by splashing out on a treat that looks and feels "special", he adds.

"People might only go out once a week now but when they go they want to really enjoy themselves," he adds. "Cocktails might be perceived as expensive, a lot goes into them – sometimes a double measure of spirit. A standard gin and tonic might be around 3.50, an average cocktail 6.50, but you're getting a lot more for your money."

Sixties-based US show Mad Men has also helped shift the image from fluffy hen night fuel to a more sophisticated tipple – more men, adds Mike, are comfortable to be seen sipping a cocktail.

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And with a bizarre mix of ingredients – beetroot juice and Cynar, an Italian liquor made from artichokes among the latest – recipes are becoming more adventurous.

"Some bars are doing amazing things. For example we're ageing our gin in barrels once used for bourbon to give it a unique flavour. We use herbs and spices which we add to natural spirit to create something completely new," he adds.

"Edinburgh is definitely ahead of other cities when it comes to producing great bartenders."

n Bramble Bar, Queen Street, www.bramblebar.co.uk; Tonic, North Castle Street, www.bar-tonic.co.uk