Visit Vancouver for a heady mix of chic urban and rugged rural life - Scotland on Sunday Travel
Vancouver has always been on my radar. Whenever speaking with like-minded travel addicts, those who have been say that you just have to visit it. "One of the best cities in the world," a friend recently told me. "The only city I'd live in outside of Edinburgh," said another. And as my Instagram became increasingly flecked with stories from Vancouver, my jealousy - and curiosity - grew. What is it that makes it one of the most desirable places in the world to visit and live in?
Especially as it is a long, long way from home. Some 4,387 miles, an eight-hour time difference and a flight across the whole span of North America. Vancouver is on the west coast of Canada in the state of British Columbia, not far from the US border. Canada itself is one of those countries blessed with riches but this part of it often trumps Montreal, Toronto and the rest when it comes to visitor numbers. There is a mystique about Vancouver that continues to lure in travellers.
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Geography clearly plays its part. Coming in to land, a window seat is essential. The view is absolutely incredible. Mountains everywhere. I'm immediately comparing it to the Highlands but the scale is grander. Islands litter the ocean. Boats of all sizes are dotting around in the water. The city glistens in the sunlight, a twinkling metropolis linked by bridges over Fraser River and the Burrard Inlet.
For a city of such repute, Vancouver is actually quite small, with a population of roughly 630,000 people. Space is at a premium given the land constraints. It is a gateway to nature. There are parks and forests everywhere, mountains within an hour's drive. I don't ski but I'm told Whistler, no more than 90 minutes away in a car, has slopes the envy of Europe. The sounds and waterways on the fringes of the Pacific Ocean make it a paradise for those who like a boat.
I'm therefore expecting a city with high standards and Vancouver does not disappoint. My hotel, Shangri-La Vancouver, on West Georgia Street is in the heart of downtown. One of its entrances is underground, which makes me think people far more famous than me have resided here. Vancouver has a thriving film scene, after all. There's a really discreet yet classy feel to this hotel. The rooms are very comfortable, the staff incredibly attentive and the Italian restaurant, Carlino, does very tasty food. I often think the mark of a high-end hotel is its spa offering and the treatment at Chi, which involved me being lathered in a salt scrub before spending 15 minutes in a steam shower followed by a massage, was unusual yet left my skin softer than the stereotypical baby's bottom. You won't go wrong staying here.
Part of that is because Vancouver just oozes class from all of its pores. Wherever you look, you either see water or mountains. Most buildings are tastefully erected with glass to adhere to strict regulations on construction, allowing the light to bounce around the streets. The air is fresh. One resident tells me that everyone stays pretty strictly to their working hours so they can enjoy the city's wares, be it bars, restaurants or - more likely - the plethora of outdoor activities on offer. In short, quality of life here is very good - even if the cost of land is exorbitant.
Vancouver's food scene is very diverse. Alouette, inspired by French cuisine, appears to be the most lavish place to dine in Gastown - the part of the city of most repute for foodies - and does not disappoint, but there's as much joy to be taken from strolling through Chinatown and gobbling up proper dim sum and authentic food from the east. Vancouver's history with China is big. After all, it was one of the first settlements Chinese immigrants landed at when coming over for the "Gold Rush". Word had spread of jobs along the river mining for gold or working on the Canadian Pacific Railway. A better life was hoped for but the Chinese were subjected to racism and poor wages, culminating in "Humiliation Day", when an exclusion act against them was brought in from 1923, lasting 24 years before common sense prevailed. Nowadays, Chinatown plays a huge part in the rich tapestry of Vancouver. My tour, conducted by the fascinating Robert Sung, was tremendous - not least for the tastiest char siu pork I consumed along the way.
Yet so much of enjoying Vancouver comes away from downtown. I'd never even heard of forest bathing, yet a morning spent in Stanley Park with Talaysay Tours getting to know nature that bit better was very enjoyable. I'll admit, I took more joy from jumping on a bike - they are popular here - cycling around Stanley Park, with trees on one side and massive cruise liners and mountains on the other. Sewell's Marina offers a great water tour of the city, diving in and out of coves, hobnobbing with seals and birds and gawping at the landscape from the ocean. You get the best view, though, with a seaplane trip from Harbour Air. The most wobbly I felt, however, was not in the aircraft but on the Capilano Suspension Bridge, which crosses the river and jiggles every step you take across it. Worth it for the spectacular pictures, though, and only a 20-minute drive from the centre.
On my last night in Vancouver, I ask the group I am with if they've ever seen a place quite like this, the most heady mix of chic urban and rugged rural life so close together. One suggests to me that Scotland is probably the closest you get. Perhaps so. The influx of visitors will continue for some time yet.
Flights, Edinburgh to Vancouver via Toronto return adult fare: £629.21 per person
London to Vancouver return adult fare: £640.51 per person
Fares are inclusive of taxes/surcharges and 1 x checked bag per person. Fare restrictions apply.
Fare is subject to availability and valid for departures up to 30 Oct 23