Ba-doom, ba-doom… the collective sound of hearts beating loudly against chests can be heard as we watch the limber Philippine crew clamber up the sky-grazing rigging of the Sea Cloud II. In an exquisitely choreographed drill, they’re setting the series of 23 sails, unfurling the right ones to harness the gentle breeze on our first day out in sea after embarking at Valletta, Malta.

But we quickly relax as it becomes apparent that we’re in highly professional (deck) hands – I suspect they could do it blindfolded – and our onshore cares gently float away. It’s the perfect scene-setter for the seven-night Sicily’s Rich Cultural Heritage cruise ahead, calling to mind the maritime adventurers through the centuries who have explored and discovered Sicily in this way.

Well, not quite this way. Described as combining the amenities of a modern cruise ship with the unique atmosphere of a romantic tall ship, Sea Cloud II is quite possibly one of the most luxurious cruising crafts I’ve ever boarded. She’s quite the knockout beauty, too. Though built in 2001, the 47 cabins, lido deck and bar, restaurant and lounge, hark back to the golden age of sailing. My home for the week onboard the 117m-long vessel is cabin 314, a category B Junior Suite that gives mini-stateroom vibes with its gold and burgundy furnishings, complete with a compact marble bath and solid gold taps.

A passenger-to-crew ratio of 96:65 means the service is first-rate, too, and offers as near to a private yacht experience as you can get. That’s not to say that the well-heeled clientele – including wealthy American property magnates and stylish Germans (the cruise company is German-owned) – can’t afford to charter or even have their own yachts. Rather, I glean from conversations throughout the coming days that they love the easy camaraderie to be found in this kind of setting.

Quite honestly, it’s a daily wrench to leave for shore excursions, but our excellent onboard lecturer/guide, Dr Anita Bestler, whets our appetite to discover more with her highly engaging daily presentations. With two PhDs under her belt, Anita’s encyclopedic knowledge is only matched by her deep passion for the island. For example, we learn that the ancient Greeks, Romans and Phoenicians were amongst the many civilisations that sought to claim ownership of the 25,711km2 island, because of its strategic position in the Mediterranean Sea.

We’re sailing clockwise around Sicily, with options to experience the island’s standout cities, sights and culture. The first highlight is the medieval city of Erice, an exhilarating 30-minute drive via switch-backed roads from Trapani. Here, an almost perfectly preserved Norman castle and monastery reveal an early French bid to take control, while the many swaying date palm trees symbolise a further historical rewind to the ninth century when the Emirate of Sicily was ruled by the Arabic Empire for more than 200 years.

The Norman theme continues in the capital city of Palermo, where we visit the Palazzo Reale, also known as the Palazzo dei Normanni. Once the seat of the Kings of Sicily during Norman domination, the slightly austere exterior belies the jaw-dropping Palatine Chapel within and its Byzantine golden mosaic-ed ceiling that delivers a ‘wow’ factor to rival that of the Sistine Chapel.

Movie buffs should also grab the opportunity to visit the Teatro Massimo Vittorio Emanuele. While Europe’s third-largest opera house is a masterpiece in its own right – think Art-Deco perfection topped off with delicate Venetian Murano glass flourishes – it is also famous for its starring role in The Godfather Part III. Francis Ford Coppola fans can stand on the grand entrance staircase where Michael Corleone (Al Pacino), witnesses the shooting of his daughter Mary, in a bungled assassination attempt on the mafia boss.

Returning to our floating home following a day of full-on sightseeing is a delight. Evenings begin with sundowner cocktails on the lido deck, accompanied by the expert tinkling of pianist Eduardo. We’re further entertained on one unforgettable occasion by a pod of playful dolphins arcing in and out of the ocean alongside the ship.

And I’m glad I’ve packed ‘forgiving’ clothes because the buffet-style lunches and dinners are consistently fantastic. My willpower goes overboard in the face of temptations which include freshly caught yellowfin tuna (we see it coming straight off a fishing boat), handmade pastas and desserts to die for, all accompanied by ever-flowing local wines. The Gala dinners, held in the elegant dining room with à la carte menus and the Captain and crew all impeccably turned out in their crisp sailing whites, take the experience up a notch.

As a solo traveller, it’s not long before I make friends with a fun German group, but I also relish the chance to enjoy the quiet moments in the many nooks around the ship. These include the colonial-style deck chairs placed for gorgeous views of the ocean and the cute library, equipped with a selection of German and English books.

There’s also an open bridge policy for guests who want to take a deeper dive into the nuts and bolts of sailing. I venture up one morning to be greeted by the friendly Second Captain who explains how they navigate using a combination of modern GPS and old-school maritime maps. Thankfully, his skills mean we are avoiding potential hazard zones bearing doom-laden names such as ‘Terrible Ridge’.

The days quickly fall into an easy rhythm, but there are surprises too. One afternoon, I’m roused from a lunch-induced nap by an announcement over the PA system that the Captain has ordered the swim deck to be lowered. Grabbing my swimming costume, I join my fellow passengers diving joyfully into the Mediterranean’s glittering waters.

Of course, for many, a visit to Sicily wouldn’t be complete without a glimpse of Mount Etna, Europe’s largest volcano, and after dropping anchor at Naxos, many of my fellow passengers join a day’s excursion from the nearby town of Taormina to get a closer look. However, we’ve already had a pre-dawn cruise-by of nearby Stromboli, another of Italy’s four active volcanoes, so I opt instead to spend a day at Taormina’s rocky beach.

A final port of call to the city of Syracuse sees us visiting the famous Ear of Dionysius, a limestone cave named by Renaissance master Caravaggio after the Greek tyrant Dionysius I who ruled Syracuse from 432 to 367 B.C. Legend has it that Dionysius used the cave as a prison, listening to the amplified whispers of his captives from the small opening at the top of the cave. Today, visitors go to experience the incredible acoustics for themselves.

As we watch the sails being folded up one last time on the last evening, I commit the sights, sounds and sensations of the past few days to memory. One thing I know for certain is that the experience has ignited a thirst to return to the high seas as soon as possible. And perhaps, if she’ll have me, I’ll be fortunate enough to embark on the good ship Sea Cloud II once more.

Prices for 2024 Sicily cruises start at 4,195€. Visit seacloud.com

A tour of beauty in Sicily