City guide: Havana

Published on Sunday 4 November 2007 00:14

WITH its dilapidated colonial architecture, 1950s cars and lack of Coca-Cola and McDonald's, Havana inhabits something of a timewarp.

As Fidel Castro becomes frailer by the day and with his brother Ral, who has stepped in, already in his 70s, time is running out for the Cuban capital. While the tourists may like it as it is, many of the island's 11 million inhabitants would prefer the kind of life that's on offer just 90 miles away across the shark-infested Gulf of Mexico. They are clamouring for change, so don't delay if you want to see the Cuban capital as it is now. But whatever happens, the mojitos, music and beaches - not to mention the irrepressible Habaneros themselves - will always be a draw for travellers.

BEFORE YOU GO

Read Time Out Havana & the Best of Cuba (12.99, Random House) and check out www.lonelyplanet.com. Pack a first-aid kit as medicines are hard to get hold of, and make sure you have plenty of sun-block. Bring your sense of humour, as everything will take longer and cost more than you expect. The official tourist currency is the Peso Convertible (CUC) .

WHEN TO GO

Anytime is a good time to visit Havana. The hot, rainy season runs from May to October, but winter (December to April) is the island's peak tourist season. The anniversary of the revolution, July 26, is particularly busy, as is New Year's Eve, when the partying goes on all night.

PLANES, TRAINS AND AUTOMOBILES

Flights from the UK cost from 385 to 600 and arrive at Jos Marti airport, 16 miles south-west of central Havana. There is no public transport but it's easy to get a taxi to the city, 30 minutes away. Cubana de Aviacin (www.cubana.cu, 020 7537 7909) flies from Gatwick twice a weeks. Virgin (www.virgin-atlantic.com, 08705 747747) flies direct twice a week from Gatwick, Iberia (www.iberia.com, 0870 609 0500) flies via Madrid, and Air France (www.airfrance.fr, 0870 142 4343) via Paris.

GETTING AROUND

Avoid buses (guaguas), as they are packed and unreliable, and opt for bicycle rickshaws (bicitaxis) or open-air cocotaxis. Traffic is light, so walking is an option, but bear in mind that the pavements are in a poor state of repair.

TOURIST TRAIL

The Spanish colonial architecture of Havana provides a splendid, if dilapidated, backdrop for the fascinating journey through Cuba's culture and history. First stop for visitors should be the Plaza de Armas in Old Havana, which is crammed with architectural gems and is regarded as one of Latin America's finest squares. Art lovers will enjoy the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes art gallery, while for history buffs the Plaza de la Revolucion is a must. Cuba produces the world's finest tobacco and Havana is Cigar City, so take a guided tour around the Partagas or La Corona factories, then further stimulate the senses with a visit to the Museo del Chocolate.

GO NATIVE

In July and August, Cubans take their holidays and crowd the 8km stretch of white sands at Playas del Este, just 20 minutes from Old Havana. Stroll around the Malecon district by the sea, joining the couples and fishermen along the sea wall and watch the rollers break, or queue for ice-cream at the legendary Coppelia (Calle 23, esquina L).

WHAT TO BUY

Havana is no shoppers' paradise, but load up on Che Guevara T-shirts, cigars and traditional guayabera men's cotton shirts, which are ideal for the heat. Avoid the black-market banana-leaf cigars and buy your authentic habanos at La Casa del Habano shops around the city, keeping the receipt to take them home.

NIGHTLIFE

Head for La Bodeguita del Medio (Calle Empedrado 207) and have a shot at Papa Hemingway's record of 13 double daiquiris in a single sitting, surrounded by the photos and signatures of the famous that cover the walls, or try El Floridita (Calle Obispo 557), where the daiquiri was invented. For a more authentic taste of Havana, join the locals for a Cristal or Bucanero Fuerte beer at the bars along the Malecon promenade and sea wall. And no trip to Havana is complete without a night at the cabaret, with Cabaret Tropicana (Calle 72 4504, Linea del Ferrocarril, Marianao) drawing crowds for its spectacular revue.

WHERE TO STAY

At the top of the range, Havana's first boutique hotel, the Saratoga (Paseo de Marti - Prado) has a rooftop pool and terrace with views over the city. Budget hotels include Hotel Vedado (Calle O 244), which is well placed for exploring the area, or stay in a casa particular, a licensed private home, for one of the best ways to meet the locals (www.havana-rentals.com; www.casaparticularcuba.org).

WHERE TO EAT

Don't go to Havana for the food, as the shortages mean it's less than impressive and you may struggle to find anything beyond rice and beans with the occasional piece of chicken or pork. Take enough cash to cover the cost of your meal, as only the top hotels and government-run restaurants will take credit cards. But there is a thriving Chinatown where the noodles are tasty and cheap, and peanuts sold at every corner will help to keep hunger pangs at bay.

CAN YOU DRINK THE WATER?

Many Cubans boil the water, as parasites are common. Do likewise, or stick to bottled water.