Sizing up the bra fitters

THERE'S a lot of thought which goes into the garment that, in the words of one maker, should lift and separate.

In terms of sheer construction there's wire, elastic, padding, hooks and eyes . . . and the odd bit of silk and lace to hold it all together.

But strangely the very people who wear such a contrived contraption - that's women - seem to put very little thought into actually making sure they wear a bra that fits properly.

Underwear sales have soared from 552 million in 2001 to a predicted 1.9 billion in 2006, according to information group Market Research, yet despite the fact women have been wearing bras since 1913, it appears 70 per cent of women wear the wrong size which can lead to health problems such as neck pain, nerve problems and poor posture.

Furthermore, recent research suggests high street bra-fitting services routinely recommend bras that are the wrong size and don't fit properly.

According to the report by Which? a good fitting should include some hands-on checks, for example checking whether a wire fits all the way round a breast, checking the tension of the underband and adjusting shoulder straps.

With the average high street bra now costing from 20 upwards, getting the correct fit is a must, not only for value for money, but for comfort - and safety. This comes down to the expert bra fitters.

Tessa Russell, of the consumer magazine, says: "Rather than relying on measuring tapes and formulas, fitters need to be properly trained to recognise and communicate how a bra should fit and recommend women try on a range of sizes and styles."

So I decided to check out whether the Capital's bra fitters know their stuff or whether they too are making regular boobs of their customers.

I am lucky enough to know my precise bra size and have been fitted by the experts Rigby and Peller - I am officially a 30E-cup, or a 32DD, depending on the brand, style and availability. But what do the bra fitters think . . .

Jenners

Perhaps I am being pernickety, but I don't think you can fully assess someone's assets in a matter of minutes. However, bra fitters at Jenners must feel they can.

After joining the queue for the service, I waited ten minutes before being ushered into a changing room and asked to take my top off. The fitter whipped out her measuring tape and decided I was a 32D. She whizzed off and came back seconds later with a stunning Elle Macpherson balcony bra and put me into it.

"That's a perfect bra for you," she says.

I don't think so. "It looks a bit vulgar as I'm bulging over the top and the wires seem to be cutting into me," I say. "That's just the style of the bra - it's meant to give you a bit of a cleavage," she replies. It's a massive cleavage, but what about the wires?

"No, they're fine. Feel free to look around and see what other bras come in a 32D you like," she chirps before flying off.

Verdict: The bra was too tight, uncomfortable and the fitter didn't seem interested in finding the right size for me.

Marks & Spencer, Princes Street

"What bra size are you wearing?" asks the fitter. A 34C, I lie. "Yes, that looks about your size," she says, checking, while I stand in my bra. "Let me just double check."

A quick pull of my bra and a swift measure later and it is confirmed I am a 34C. "But you could always opt for a 32 back and a D-cup if you felt it was a bit loose," she added.

After trying on a 34C she concedes it's too loose for my back and offers little support, so I am offered a 32D instead, which fits better, although cuts into me somewhat. I tell her that it doesn't feel comfortable, but she maintains that a 32D is my size.

Verdict: It's easy to see why so many women wear the wrong size bra with this misinformation.

Marks & Spencer, Gyle

The poster in my cubicle states that the bra fitters can fit you without even using a measuring tape. And it seems this fitter can do just that. "What size of bra are you wearing?" she asks. A 34 back, I lie.

"You have a very small back so I would advise you go for a 32, plus looking at your cup size I would recommend a DD, although if you choose one of our balcony bras which have fuller cups you could get away with a D-cup."

I question whether the wires in the smaller size would cut into me, but my fitter doesn't seem to think so. She takes me out to the shop floor and shows me a range of bras that would be suitable. "But, whatever you do, always try them on first because each bra may differ in size. You can't just assume it will fit."

Verdict: Despite no measuring tape, she was pretty accurate.

La Senza

There are pretty bras en masse, so I take a selection of different sizes and styles in and request to be fitted. My chirpy and helpful fitter knocks on the door minutes later, does a swift measurement and declares I am a 32D.

"You may be a DD in some brands, but for La Senza - and the styles you've chosen - a D-cup seems perfect for you," she says.

I try on the recommended bras and they feel good - supportive and well fitting. The only gripe is the slightly loose feeling around the back, which I fear will worsen as the elastic loosens. I check out 30-inch backs but they don't come in my cup size so concede that if it's going to be La Senza, it's going to be a 32.

Verdict: She wasn't completely impartial as she has to work within La Senza's size restrictions, but on the whole she knew her stuff.

Frasers

My bra fitter leads me into the cubicle, asks me what size I am (32D I lie) and I am then measured briefly across the rib cage. "Yeah, I'd say you are a 32D," she decides. "Would you like me to get you some bras to try?"

She returns with some pretty-looking bras in my size but none seem to fit very well and I am spilling over the top. I am told I should only opt for matronly full cups as opposed to feminine and youthful bras. Surely I should just go up a cup size? "No, you are a 32D," she replies.

Verdict: She was close but not close enough. The bras didn't fit and they weren't comfortable.

John Lewis

Before I was even measured and standing in my own bra, my fitter guessed I was a 32DD. It was a good start. "Your back is so tiny that you are actually a size 30," she said after taking the tape measure to me. "I would say you are really a 30E but this will vary according to which bra style and brand you go for."

She left me to find some bras in my size to check her estimate and, after a few minutes I was being hoisted into a perfect-fitting 30E bra. "You have to always check that the wires are not digging into the bust and lie outside it, and that you put yourself in the bra correctly to check you fill it," she added.

"Every bra is different so while this may fit you, another bra in the same size may be slightly bigger. You could also be a 30DD depending on the brand. Also, because you're so small across the back you will struggle for pretty bras, so try a 32DD as that size will work too."

Verdict: The John Lewis bra fitter was a fountain of bosom knowledge, and knew her trade well. And most importantly, she sized me spot on.

Got to get out to enjoy girl's night in

Harvey Nichols is hosting a Girl's Night In evening shopping party in the perfumery and accessories department tonight and customers will get ten per cent off purchases, as well as exclusive gifts with-purchase offers, prize draws, Christmas drinks, mulled wine, and music by Beat 106. Simply pop into the store and pick up a free ticket from any of the perfumery counters.

IF a diamond ring or a designer watch is top of the wish list, then why not make the most of Mappin & Webb's interest free credit offer on selected items. Simply pay 20 per cent of the cost upfront and walk away with a rock to make Posh green with envy or a watch to put Beckham's in the shade.

New season collections have just arrived at contemporary Greek jewellery emporium

Asimi , in George Street, and the shop is hosting a Christmas shopping evening on Thursday, from 6-8pm, with champagne and ten per cent off all purchases made on the evening. Choose from bold coloured necklaces, Swarovski crystals and pretty semi-precious stones.

John Lewis is hosting free events, workshops and demonstrations every day up until Christmas to inspire weary shoppers - or just entertain. Today at 3pm learn how to make your very own Christmas crackers in the Christmas Shop. Tomorrow at noon there's a table decorating workshop in the china and glass department, followed by food and wine tasting at 3pm in gifts. And on Sunday the kids get to write their letter to Santa in the toy department at 3pm.

HMV is taking the stress out of Christmas shopping as it has just launched a personal shopping service with expert staff in every store who will help select the presents you need to buy. So, whether you need to buy for that difficult-to-please teenager, specialist music aficionado, or just simply don't have the time, let the personal shoppers do the hard work. Just look for staff wearing Here To Help You T-shirts in-store now.

Do you have a hot deal? E-mail [email protected]